tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-51489037380707337352024-03-14T14:18:34.459+08:00Allison.C Sewing GalleryFabric shopping and sewing in Hong KongAllisonChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07431369603470575306noreply@blogger.comBlogger424125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5148903738070733735.post-54666051551914446252019-02-13T18:09:00.000+08:002019-02-13T18:09:14.259+08:00Itch to Stitch Plitvice TopI have a few patterns by Itch to Stitch in my collection that I have been meaning to try for a while. This is one of the newer releases, the Plitvice cowl knit top.<br />
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I like that the pattern is shown made up on a lot of testers and I have to say the instructions for this top at least are excellent and very detailed. <br />
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The PDF patterns are layered so you can just print off the size(s) that you want and it is available in a copy shop version if you don't want to do the whole print at home taping thing. This particular pattern is only 14 pages though and I just read the instructions from my laptop.<br />
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<a href="https://itch-to-stitch.com/new-pattern-plitvice-top/" target="_blank">https://itch-to-stitch.com/new-pattern-plitvice-top/</a><br />
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I'm not sure the line drawing is accurate to be honest, in reality the front panel is wider (or the side panels are narrower). Maybe in the smaller sizes it is more like this?</div>
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I really liked that it is a cowl t shirt, but with flat side panels to control the fullness and concentrate it in the front. The sleeve and hip bands also finish those edges neatly especially if you have quite a thin jersey like I do here. I made a size 8 with no adjustments although I might try shifting the gathers up a bit higher next time. These are not great photos, but I did promise myself for 2019 I would not let that get in the way of getting posts up and it is only February so....<br />
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Since Hong Kong seems to be skipping right over winter this year I have already worn this top (under a blazer, but still - crazy! I'm not complaining, but makes it really hard to decide what to sew next. This little guy also makes it quite difficult to get anything done - just too cute!<br />
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<br />AllisonChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07431369603470575306noreply@blogger.com73tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5148903738070733735.post-53175330981634680222019-01-23T18:41:00.003+08:002019-01-23T18:41:54.686+08:00Style Arc Juliet Shirt<br />
Link to <a href="https://www.stylearc.com/shop/sewing-patterns/juliet-woven-shirt/" target="_blank">Style Arc Juliet shirt pattern</a> here<br />
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As a fan of all the drapy, twisty patterns I loved this Style Arc shirt when it was released and ordered it pretty soon afterwards. However when it arrived (printed copy, not pdf) and I cut it out I noticed a printing error on the cuff piece which was incomplete. Now it's just a rectangle, but it made me think maybe there were other errors. I did email Style Arc about it, but never received a reply, got annoyed, put the pattern away and subsequently forgot all about it.<br />
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I recently dug it out again and simply corrected the cuff piece to match the width of the sleeve. You can see in the photo below the amount I needed to extend it by - quite a lot!<br />
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I made a test version using some inexpensive self stripe stretch cotton shirting and fortunately the rest of the pattern pieces had no problems. I made a size 10 with no alterations so can't really complain too much!</div>
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Despite my initial disappointment with the pattern there are some good things about it, other than the style;</div>
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<li>smaller seam allowances on the collar making it much easier to handle</li>
<li>whole collar and stand is assembled as one unit before attaching to the shirt body</li>
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The back is supposed to be slightly longer than the front, but I didn't have enough fabric to do that. I also didn't think at all about making the stripe pattern symmetrical on the fronts, but I don't think it's that noticeable in an all white shirt.</div>
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I really haven't done a good job tying it here now I see the photos so I will pay attention to that when I wear it in real life. It would be better to have the tie nearer to the centre as shown in the line drawing.</div>
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Now I have confidence in the pattern I do plan to make it again although somewhat ironically I may extend the sleeve to full length which would mean shortening the cuff piece again!</div>
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<br />AllisonChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07431369603470575306noreply@blogger.com24tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5148903738070733735.post-45195745749828262422019-01-20T14:47:00.002+08:002019-01-20T14:47:45.743+08:00BurdaStyle 11/2018 - 119 BlazerI loved this blazer from the November 2018 issue and since there is no collar and only fake pockets it is a lot easier to make than you might think. The buttonhole is in the waist seam so that is easy too.<br />
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<a href="https://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/collarless-blazer-112018" target="_blank">11/2018 - 119 Blazer</a><br />
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For this version I did things slightly differently and made it from a ponte knit (really only because I have lots and it takes up lots of space in my stash!) and left it unlined. I also lengthened it as I plan to wear it with jeans or pants and prefer my butt to be covered, with a skirt or dress I think the original pattern length would be better for me.<br />
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All the seams were finished together on my serger and then I topstitched to flatten and define the seemliness and edges.<br />
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The instructions are to interface the whole front of the jacket, but I decided this was not necessary in my fabric. I only interfaced the back neck facing, 1 pair of pocket flaps, front peplum facing and the inner front band. In a lighter suiting material I would use more.<br />
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I'm really happy with how this turned out, and dare I say this might be my new TNT blazer pattern. As I mentioned it is pretty easy to make for a jacket and the clean collarless front mean it can work with lots of different options underneath. <br />
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Update since drafting this post.....I've already cut another one in a teal crepe, very similar to the magazine original!<br />
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<br />AllisonChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07431369603470575306noreply@blogger.com23tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5148903738070733735.post-75637990180481673842019-01-11T09:42:00.001+08:002019-01-11T09:42:45.949+08:00BurdaStyle 8/2018 - 111 Wrap JacketI AM going to get this blog up to date with my 2018 finished items before moving on to the new year. I hope that in 2019 I can accept I am neither a model nor a photographer and not let that get in the way of posting regularly. I need to keep telling myself that this is a sewing blog to share what I am making and to connect with the online sewing community - nothing more - and the photos and writing do not need to be perfect. So first up is this BurdaStyle jacket from August 2018.<br />
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This wrap jacket is a really interesting design, I loved the neckline shape and the sleeve detail is fabulous. but not too crazy. I made this in some khaki twill cotton which I'm honestly not sure was the best fabric choice, but I'm still working through my pile of super cheap fabric which gives me freedom to experiment a bit.<br />
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<a href="https://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/belted-jacket-082018" target="_blank">BurdaStyle 8/2018 - 111</a><br />
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<span style="text-align: start;">While I like the look of the finished jacket, I wonder if it would be better in a more lightweight fabric than the cotton twill that I used here, although then the sleeve detail - which I love - would be lost I suppose. </span></div>
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I also made a simple coordinating print skirt. This is a BurdaStyle pattern I've used before (<a href="http://allisoncsewinggallery.blogspot.com/2017/08/burdastyle-122011-108-skirt.html" target="_blank">12/2011 - 108</a>). It's extremely basic, but sometimes that is all you need especially in a print fabric. </div>
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<span style="text-align: start;">I've also found that like many wrap garments it is a bit fussy to keep everything in place when you start moving around in real life - as you can see in the photos below. I need to add a snap or two on the front which will help somewhat.</span></div>
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<br />AllisonChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07431369603470575306noreply@blogger.com20tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5148903738070733735.post-78887744119686176372018-11-27T09:51:00.001+08:002018-11-27T09:51:30.611+08:00BurdaStyle 9/2018 - 121 Knit Wrap TopIt's no secret that I am a big fan of Burda magazine, for me it is by far the cheapest way to get sewing patterns and I love the inspiration it gives me every month. I don't even mind the tracing and the minimal instructions....<br />
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BUT, I have to say the instructions for this very simple top are terrible!! There are only 3 pattern pieces and I know I have even made a similar top from Burda before. (<a href="https://www.instagram.com/p/BqKxIQ0HwFD/" target="_blank">Fehr Trade</a> posted the same thing on her instagram so it's not just me having a dumb moment).<br />
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<a href="https://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/jersey-wrap-top-092018" target="_blank">BurdaStyle 09/2018 - 121</a><br />
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Despite the awful instructions I do actually love the finished top.<br />
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Anyway I would say ignore the nonsense about cutting into one side of the front self facing (the very first step!) as it is not needed. I guess the idea is that the other front passes through the slit, but it's not clear later on. Even in my bulkier fabric I don't think it makes any difference. The instructions also have "(NAHT)" in two places and goodness only knows what that means!! Neaten allowances together pops up at the end of a few other steps so maybe something like that?!?<br />
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Stupid instructions aside this is a really nice pattern. I made mine in a heavier fabric than recommended - a double knit - so mine is more sweatshirt than blouse. I like using fabrics like this for wrap tops though as the "stickiness" of the fabric makes it more secure. I originally planned to make this in more of a t-shirt knit and I might still go back and try it.<br />
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I am way behind on blogging my finished items. It's the taking photos on me that slows it all down, but I think it is really useful to see the clothes being worn and it also helps me to see if something needs fixing or styling differently - sometimes the camera shows you things a mirror does not so I will really try and keep going.<br />
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<br />AllisonChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07431369603470575306noreply@blogger.com20tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5148903738070733735.post-89218077795349176962018-10-07T10:13:00.002+08:002018-10-07T10:13:11.828+08:00BurdaStyle 5/2018 - 114 Tie Front Sheath DressI've had a run of making skirts lately and should probably now switch to tops so I have whole outfits that I can actually wear, but no instead I decided to make a dress!<br />
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This is quite a basic sheath dress and I decided to make it in some of my bargain stretch cotton twill fabric. There is very little to say about the construction honestly. I cut a size 40 and then basted the side seams until I was happy with the fit. I should have done the same with the sleeves as they are a little tight on me. My fabric was stretchy enough that I didn't need to add the split at the back seam.<br />
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<a href="https://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/tie-front-sheath-dress-052018" target="_blank">5/2018 - 114</a><br />
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Looking at the line drawing I see I'm supposed to knot the tie which I haven't done in any of these photos, oops! My fabric is not at all slippery so it stays tied like this.<br />
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There are no facings, instead the dress is lined to the edge. I lined just the bodice with a scrap of printed cotton. If I'd had enough fabric I would have just drafted a neck facing I think, it feels odd lining such a casual fabric even though the dress looks quite...dressy!</div>
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I've found that uploading photos is so much easier from my phone than my camera. The quality is not as good (time for a new phone!) so apologies for the slight blurriness, but I'm hoping this will help me get through my blogging backlog faster!<br />
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<br />AllisonChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07431369603470575306noreply@blogger.com14tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5148903738070733735.post-74319984899769605922018-09-05T12:44:00.002+08:002018-09-05T20:02:23.904+08:00BurdaStyle 05/2017 - 108 Oversized Pocket Skirt<span style="text-align: center;">You often read about sewing bloggers saying that a fabric "spoke to them" when deciding what to make with it. That happened to me here when this printed cotton sateen, which was always going to be either a pencil skirt or a shift dress, shouted very loudly that it wanted to be this skirt. The funny thing is I was never particularly attracted to this pattern and I still think it is kind of a crazy design, but I could not get it out of my head and had to search it out on the Burda site.</span><br />
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The talkative fabric - printed stretch cotton sateen from Pattern Bee in Sham Shui Po as mentioned in my <a href="http://allisoncsewinggallery.blogspot.com/2018/08/fabric-shopping-in-sham-shui-po-hong.html" target="_blank">previous post here</a>. I think it was HK$60/yard, really nice to work with.<br />
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And the crazy pattern. Yes the giant pockets do take up the whole length of the skirt! I think to make them usable you would want to add a line of stitching otherwise you will have to fish your phone or wallet out from down by your knees!<br />
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<a href="https://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/oversized-pocket-skirt-052017" target="_blank">5/2017 - 108</a><br />
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<i>(Edited to add : Oh!! Now I see the line drawing online it is supposed to have front pleats, this isn't obvious in the line drawing in my magazine and clearly I paid no attention to the directions either! My pockets are attached the whole way down and looking at <a href="https://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/inlaid-pleat-skirt-052017" target="_blank">view B in the magazine</a>, I think I prefer my wrong way better!)</i></div>
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FQqdLwFGpsY/W43lXQ-y7aI/AAAAAAAARx8/UJFfFrMFi9gJq4g-ZGRgwELeDHZDK5HJACLcBGAs/s1600/0517-108p.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1192" data-original-width="806" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FQqdLwFGpsY/W43lXQ-y7aI/AAAAAAAARx8/UJFfFrMFi9gJq4g-ZGRgwELeDHZDK5HJACLcBGAs/s400/0517-108p.png" width="270" /></a></div>
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It is an easy skirt to make, the only slightly annoying part is that you finish hemming the layers partway through construction. I much prefer to do it at the end when I can properly try it on, but I think it would be a bit bulky if you try and do it altogether. You also end up with slits in the underlayer <i>(oops, no I sewed it wrong see my edit note above!)</i> , but how much this helps with walking in it I'm not sure. Fortunately I like the finished length although it looks better on me with heels.<br />
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Also if you follow my instagram (@allisoncsewing) you would have seen that the zip pull came right off just as I finished the skirt, so for now (and realistically probably forever) I have a ribbon pull.<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6yQ1a-4QX3M/W43jL_L4LvI/AAAAAAAARxo/he6OvkYyPd8Jwfryst-wc41h5iwaib8mQCKgBGAs/s1600/20180812_094619.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1146" height="400" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6yQ1a-4QX3M/W43jL_L4LvI/AAAAAAAARxo/he6OvkYyPd8Jwfryst-wc41h5iwaib8mQCKgBGAs/s400/20180812_094619.jpg" width="286" /></a></div>
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Here are pictures of me wearing it - I realise I could have saved myself a bit of work and just made a plain pencil skirt, but it's fun to try new patterns and this one was really interesting to make. Still haven't used the pockets yet....!<br />
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AllisonChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07431369603470575306noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5148903738070733735.post-88458662119242514962018-08-24T16:33:00.001+08:002018-08-24T16:33:16.711+08:00Fabric Shopping in Sham Shui Po, Hong KongI've had this post half drafted for a while now and a recent message on instagram has inspired me get it done!<br />
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This is in no way an exhaustive guide, in fact every time I go I usually find somewhere new and since the stock can change drastically you never really know what you are going to find. If you are looking for that special piece of silk this may not be the place to find it to be honest. (I go to Shenzhen in China for that, but you will need a visa if you want to do the same. You can also try upstairs at the <a href="https://westernmarket.com.hk/eng/shop-1f.htm" target="_blank">Western Market in Sheung Wan</a>, more expensive, but nice stuff).<br />
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This is the area I focus on in Sham Shui Po when I am doing a quick trip so I thought it would be useful to share for those of you visiting Hong Kong on holiday or a stopover and maybe with a friend or partner who does not get as excited about fabric shopping as we do!! If you have time and want to really explore then you can just expand out from the area highlighted here. Let me know if you find any gems!<br />
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<a href="https://mauvecloudstudio.wordpress.com/2018/04/11/fabric-shopping-in-hong-kong/" target="_blank">Mauve Cloud Studio </a>also has a fantastic post with photos of this area that I really recommend you also take a look at.<br />
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Last time I went it was chucking it down with rain so I was really efficient. I also managed to fill up my rucksack in one shop where everything was on sale for HK$5 per yard (around US$ 0.65) - insane. I assume stock must come from fabric or clothing factories at the end of a production run so the quantity, quality and type varies enormously. There are though a few shops that reliably have certain things and the suggested itinerary below includes them.<br />
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First, here is my $5 haul which has singlehandedly made my stash out of control!</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stretch cotton shirting and ribbed knit</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stretch cotton twill in all the colours</td></tr>
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<b><u>Suggested fabric shopping itinerary</u></b></div>
Take the MTR to Sham Shui Po, Exit A2 for Apliu Street. (There is a fascinating market here selling a bizarre collection of things - one stall will only have secondhand remote controllers, next door a pile of drills for example). <br />
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This area is laid out in a grid system so it's quite easy to get around. You want to go straight from the exit across Apliu and Yu Chau Streets and then turn left onto Ki Lung Street.<br />
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For fabric shopping I generally stick to Ki Lung Street between Nam Cheong Street and Wong Chuk Street. You'll see a bunch of stalls selling fabric in the street here and there are also shops lining both sides of the street. (The end of Ki Lung Street that you start at from the MTR is mostly for wholesalers, you'll see all the little sample cards outside the stores, so you need to walk further up to reach the regular stores).<br />
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Once you reach the right section the stalls in the street are worth a look, one place sells nice soft cotton prints, there is always cotton shirting here and suitings/knits of varying quality. I also get zips and overlocker thread here.<br />
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Of the shops lining the streets some regulars for me are :<br />
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Pattern Bee, 156 Ki Lung St<br />
An actual store with fabrics nicely displayed, always great prints here. <br />
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Earth, 158 Ki Lung Street<br />
Another nicely laid out store if rummaging is not your thing, often some amazing digital prints here.<br />
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Wa Fat Fabric, 217 Ki Lung Street<br />
Usually some nice jerseys on the stairs at the back.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jerseys from Wa Fat, really wide, HK$30-45/yard</td></tr>
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159 Ki Lung Street<br />
This is a new one for me, but is where I got my HK$5/yard fabric so I will always have a look now! <br />
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For higher end fabrics, though again it's kind of random what you will find, I recommend Moon Yue Fabrics on the first floor of 125-127 Yu Chau Street, the next street over and weirdly marked on the map above. No matter when I visit the staff seem to be eating in the middle of the store so it is kind of an odd experience, but they are very helpful!<br />
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You could then walk back to the MTR along Yu Chau Street which is the place to go for all the trims, beads, buttons etc. that you could ever wish for.<br />
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Last, but definitely not least, should you need a coffee break and a pitstop in the middle of all this then I recommend <a href="https://www.cafesausalitohk.com/find-us/" target="_blank">Cafe Sausalito</a>, just one street across at 201 Tai Nan Street, also marked on the map above.</div>
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Happy Shopping!</div>
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<br />AllisonChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07431369603470575306noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5148903738070733735.post-33249866599305466252018-08-07T14:56:00.000+08:002018-08-07T14:56:23.967+08:00Three Easy Knit Travel DressesI've mentioned before that I love knit dresses for the summer and especially for travelling - they are comfortable, pack up really small and light and don't crease plus it is easy to wear them very casually for sightseeing and dress them up a bit for evening.<br />
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This is mostly old news if you follow my instagram account (@allisoncsewing), but last month I went to Puglia, Italy and as usual decided at the last minute that new dresses were needed. I turned to 3 of my favourites that I have made many times before. I actually only managed to get two of them done in time, but the final one is finished now and will still get plenty of outings before summer is over.<br />
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<a href="https://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/jersey-dress-052010" target="_blank"><b>Burda Style 05/2010 - 105</b></a><br />
I have lost count of the number of times I have made this dress (& now I think about it I packed 4 of them on this trip!). I usually widen the skirt and wear a slip underneath to reduce the lumps and bumps a bit, but honestly I prefer the narrower skirt silhouette if you have the confidence for it.<br />
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This version is very casual, in a soft pink & black stripe cotton knit. It doesn't drape as well as some of the ITY knit versions I've made in the past, but for casual daywear it is ideal.</div>
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<b><u>McCall's 6319 (out of print)</u></b></div>
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I've only ever made View A and I've never bothered putting on the zipper at the shoulder, perhaps I will branch out on a future version!</div>
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This one is in a classic black & white striped knit, I like the effect the asymmetric pleats make with the stripes.<br />
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<b><u>McCall's 6069 (out of print)</u></b></div>
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Last but not least is McCall's 6069, View A which is the one I just finished last week. Despite making this dress a few times before I have yet to make it in anything close to the 1 hour boldly claimed on the pattern! Originally I wanted a sort of relaxed maxi sundress feel so I widened and lengthened the skirt. However, when I tried it on it looked too much like a formal gown with it's dramatic front and back cowl drape. This is good to know if I ever need a packable, quick to make fancy dress, but it wasn't what I was looking for this time so I hacked the skirt down to midi length.</div>
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<br />AllisonChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07431369603470575306noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5148903738070733735.post-305164627936558982018-07-20T10:20:00.000+08:002018-07-20T10:20:04.060+08:00BurdaStyle 07/2018 - 113 Knot DressI loved this pattern from the July issue of Burda Style and made it in record time (for me anyway) for a whistle stop trip in the UK before heading to Italy for a holiday.<br />
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<a href="https://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/knotted-neckline-dress-072018" target="_blank">https://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/knotted-neckline-dress-072018</a><br />
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The knot detail at the neck is really interesting, I had assumed it was just a simple slit in the centre front seam, but the pattern pieces are curved and lined so that you end up with a circle that stands out from the bodice a bit. This creates nice gathers when you add the loop in later. Fortunately this part of the instructions has an illustration which helps a bit.<br />
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I made a size 40 and added around 20cm to the length of the skirt so that it would be midi length (I was making this to wear to Henley Regatta in the UK which has a strict, if slightly prehistoric dress code - nothing above the knee, no trousers or culottes).</div>
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I used quite a loud crepe print in shades of pink, orange, black & cream. It is a complete accident that I ended up with a neat little cream diamond shape at the centre front bodice seam as I did not even attempt any pattern matching.</div>
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I really love the finished dress, the v neckline and cut on sleeve style are my personal favourite shapes and I would like to make it again, perhaps in a solid colour. <br />
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The weather in the UK was absolutely glorious, it was pretty hot the day I wore this and it was really comfortable although it creased a bit from sitting.<br />
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It's not like this all day, but these photos from the event amused me - largely empty deckchairs for viewing the rowing and a jam packed bar! (No judgement from me, I was doing the same!).</div>
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<br />AllisonChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07431369603470575306noreply@blogger.com14tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5148903738070733735.post-31969947462362130162018-06-07T14:41:00.001+08:002018-06-07T14:41:31.393+08:00Vogue 9293 DressesThis pattern is from the Vogue Easy Options range and has a number of different skirt and sleeve options to create different looks. I used the pattern to make not one, but two cocktail dresses for two events I went to recently!<br />
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<a href="https://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v9293" target="_blank">https://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v9293</a><br />
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The first was a formal black tie dinner and I didn't want to wear the full length ballgown I made last year (see post <a href="http://allisoncsewinggallery.blogspot.com/2017/11/burdastyle-ballgown.html" target="_blank">here</a>). I did however have a lot of that same brocade fabric left. Originally I was thinking of making a full skirted ballgown, plus there was a separate piece on the bolt they gave me - I probably still have enough for a jacket or pencil skirt, but I'm kind of done with this fabric for now!<br />
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Brocade is not one of the recommended fabrics (seersucker, linen, challis, broadcloth) for this dress, but I thought it would work and chose view A, the short sleeved, full skirted version. <br />
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I left off the pockets and also lowered the neckline a bit. I just did this by folding the edge over on my dressform and ended up creating a small v at the back neckline too, just to get it to sit nicely. The original neckline is finished with bias tape, but I decided to create a facing piece to match my new neckline which I then interfaced to give it a bit more structure in my brocade fabric. <br />
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I sewed the side seams last as is my preference so I can fine tune the fit in the bodice. The hems were all finished invisibly by hand which was faster than I expected as the texture of the brocade hides everything.<br />
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Despite the small risk taken with completely ignoring the fabric recommendations, I'm really happy with my cocktail dress. It was comfortable to wear and great for dancing - sorry no photographic evidence!<br />
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Just a week later I had another, smaller dinner to go to which was Oscars themed and I decided it was time for a new LBD cocktail dress in my wardrobe. We had visitors that week too so with limited time I just pulled out this pattern again and made View D, the short sleeved, pencil skirted version. <br />
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I used a black silk dupion which I underlined with black silk organza and basically made in the exact same way as the first version. I always use this underlining method when sewing with dupion, it gives it a bit more body and means that no stitching is visible on the outside as all the hems can be hand stitched to the underlining.<br />
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Surely now I have a dress for just about any formal occasion!? I love both of these dresses and I think this is a great pattern, although you may want to check if the neckline is also too high for you.<br />
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Maybe one of these days I will get around to making a version in one of the recommended fabrics!<br />
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<br />AllisonChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07431369603470575306noreply@blogger.com24tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5148903738070733735.post-34478731872767251852018-04-25T13:42:00.000+08:002018-04-25T13:42:30.249+08:00BurdaStyle 04/2018 - 108 BlouseI like a lot of things in the April issue of BurdaStyle, but I always like to start things off with something easy. This is #108, the ruffle sleeved blouse. The magazine refers to view A and B, but the only difference is the fabric, which is kind of cheating a bit if you ask me!<br />
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<a href="http://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/ruffle-sleeve-top-042018">http://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/ruffle-sleeve-top-042018</a><br />
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No one can ever say I am an early adopter of trends, but it seems that eventually they grow on me, or perhaps just become unavoidable and wear me down! Now it is the turn of ruffles although I'm really only dipping my toes as I left off the ruffles at the shoulder and the sleeve ones are quite subtle. The instructions say to leave the edges of the ruffles raw, but I'm not quite ready to go that far yet so mine are finished with a narrow hem.</div>
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As you can see from the line drawing it is very boxy - in fact it is practically a square and when I went to sew the side seams I ended up sewing the front and back hems together instead - doh!! </div>
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I thought the neckline bias facing would be difficult at the V, but the instructions have a really good method and you just fold the ends at that point and clip after sewing. </div>
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I cut the neckline at the smallest size and it still has a tendency to slip off the shoulder a bit so I will probably go back and add some shoulder stays to stop that so I'm not fussing with it when I wear it.</div>
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It is pretty quick and easy to make and I used a remnant of this soft cotton print so I think it will be great for the summer. </div>
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<span style="text-align: left;">I didn't intend for it to be worn with the <a href="http://allisoncsewinggallery.blogspot.hk/2018/03/burdastyle-112015-105-godet-skirt.html" target="_blank">skirt I made recently</a> from the same fabric, but it works so I might use these pieces as a jumping off point for a mini summer wardrobe.</span></div>
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<br />AllisonChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07431369603470575306noreply@blogger.com15tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5148903738070733735.post-64776800839487166902018-04-21T13:07:00.001+08:002018-04-21T13:07:05.972+08:00BurdaStyle 01/2018 - 121 SkirtI completely overlooked this skirt (121) in the January 2018 issue of BurdaStyle, the magazine photo is completely uninspiring, although now that I have made it I can see that it would make a nice winter skirt - oh well, next year!<br />
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<a href="http://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/winter-skirt-012018">http://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/winter-skirt-012018</a><br />
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It was only when browsing through my instagram feed that I came across a gorgeous skirt by Lone Star Couture - you can see it on her blog here -<a href="http://lonestarcouture.blogspot.hk/2018/03/my-easter-confection.html" target="_blank">http://lonestarcouture.blogspot.hk/2018/03/my-easter-confection.html</a>. I didn't recognise the skirt pattern at all and had to go and dig out my magazine.</div>
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What I love about this pattern is that it has a full front, with the pleats stitched down to control the fullness at the waist and a plain aline back. Now I know this isn't really groundbreaking, but I haven't come across it before. Full skirts can be a bit...too full on my hips, although I love the look so this seems like a perfect solution.</div>
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Construction is very straightforward although I did get a bit confused putting in the pockets. They are shaped so they go right up to the waist seam which is good as it keeps them in place. I'm not sure I set them in the correct way. Still, they work and look OK so that will do. I'll see how much I use the pockets. I know some people go mad for pockets and I admit they are good for posing in, but I don't think I'd ever put anything in them. Without the pockets this will be even quicker and easier to sew and I can see a few of these in my summer wardrobe this year. </div>
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So, don't be put off by Burda's magazine photo or the description of a winter skirt - this is a great basic pattern that will work in a variety of fabrics.</div>
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I'm wearing it here with <a href="https://www.stylearc.com/shop/sewing-patterns/madeleine-ponte-top/" target="_blank">Style Arc Madeleine ponte top</a></div>
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<br />AllisonChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07431369603470575306noreply@blogger.com16tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5148903738070733735.post-72147441901663806352018-03-29T09:28:00.002+08:002018-03-29T09:51:31.907+08:00BurdaStyle 11/2015 - 105 Godet SkirtIsn't it a great feeling when you choose a pattern from one of your Burda magazines only to find that at some point in the past you had already traced it!<br />
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That might be part of it, but this skirt is currently my favourite thing and someone may have to stop me making a whole wardrobe of them.<br />
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<a href="http://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/godet-skirt-112015--2">11/2015 - 105</a><br />
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To be honest I'm not completely sold on the colour block version, but the cut is lovely - somewhat fitted in the waist and hips and then all swishy from there down. It will be perfect for our hot summer weather, not that I have been waiting to wear it - it's great for spring too with a casual denim jacket.</div>
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This one is in a very soft cotton floral print. I love the colours in this and although I'm wearing it with an obvious black knit top here, it will work well with khaki, raspberry and cream so I'll be looking out for fabric for some coordinating pieces.</div>
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Getting the seams to meet perfectly at a point is hard, but fortunately the print covers a multitude of sins. If you're doing the colour block version some serious marking and basting will be needed.</div>
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<br />AllisonChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07431369603470575306noreply@blogger.com13tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5148903738070733735.post-73128879993922863622018-03-21T17:16:00.000+08:002018-03-21T17:17:08.284+08:00BurdaStyle 02/2018 - 107 Offset Jersey TopThis is one of those patterns that I just simply had to try, I mean just look at this crazy line drawing!<br />
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And just the thing for a fishing trip.....!</div>
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It is a very fast sew (once you figure out how the 2 pieces go together!) and really fun to make, but does use up quite a bit of fabric - due to the odd shaped pattern pieces you do need the full 2 yards of wide fabric which is quite a lot for a t-shirt.<br />
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I had to drape the pieces on my dress form to understand how to sew the first 2 seams. Hopefully my scribbles on the magazine showing these seams help - remember that the pieces are cut single layer of fabric and right side up, but sewn right sides together so it will make a bit more sense when you flip one piece over. Though maybe not much more sense as I've made it twice now and I still don't really understand how or why it works!! (Also note that the pattern piece numbers are 21 and 22, not 1 and 2).<br />
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Once those 2 seams are done it should look something like the finished line drawing and you just need to sew up the side/sleeve seams and hem the edges. Fortunately when worn the craziness of the pattern pieces give way to some nice draping and twisting effects. <br />
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My first version is in a very soft fuchsia knit and it is a little bit big, the neckline is quite wide and has a tendency to slip a bit. I do love the colour though so I might add some shoulder stays to deal with that.<br />
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I prefer the fit on my second version which I sewed up a bit smaller, plus I think the fabric content of this one is a bit different (though still unknown!).<br />
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<br />AllisonChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07431369603470575306noreply@blogger.com10tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5148903738070733735.post-7579628834932610102018-02-14T14:47:00.000+08:002018-02-14T14:47:49.352+08:00BurdaStyle 01/2018 - 118 DressThank you for the comments on my wrap coat, I got very frustrated with trying to find a pattern to work with the fabric, but a bit of space from the process always helps. It will be the perfect thing to wear this weekend for Chinese New Year I think.<br />
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Back to the Burda 2018 Challenge, those of you who follow my sewing instagram account (<a href="http://allisoncsewing instagram">@allisoncsewing</a>) will already have seen a preview of this dress. This was the pattern that really jumped out at me from the January issue although I will not be wearing mine over a sweater like they did in the magazine. I'm always a bit suspicious when they do things like that - did it not fit right; is there a big gaping hole at the knot part?<br />
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The pattern is also available as a pdf at the link below. There are also a few more photos here (without the sweater!) which is helpful.<br />
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<a href="http://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/tight-midi-dress-012018">BurdaStyle 01/2018 - 118</a><br />
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It's clearer from the photo that the waistline sits just below the natural waist, something I didn't notice until I took photos of the finished dress on my dressform. </div>
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Recommended fabrics for the dress are "dress fabrics" which is not particularly helpful! The Burda sample used a stretch viscose crepe and it certainly looked like a dress where some stretch would be a good thing. I used a ponte fabric in a very dark purple colour that honestly looks almost black and is just as impossible to photograph. The reverse side is actually black so I was originally planning on using the fabric for something colour blocked, but wanted to get on and make this dress instead so here we are.</div>
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The pattern is rated 3 dots which means "intermediate, for advanced learners". The instructions are a bit scarily long and the front bodice pieces are unusual looking, but it goes together quite easily - the little pattern piece diagrams are marked with seam numbers which is really helpful to refer to as you go through the instructions.<br />
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I did make a couple of minor changes - since I made this out of ponte I was able to leave the zipper off and I also did not line the dress which cuts the instructions in half! A few people have commented that there could/should be pockets in those front skirt seams and I think that would be quite easy to do although personally I don't need any extra bulk around the tummy in a form fitting skirt.<br />
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The only part of construction that gave me difficulty was stitching the pleats in place on the inside, it wasn't really obvious to me what to sew to what in a way that was both invisible and secure. I just experimented with pins until I got something I was happy with, but it's not quite right and does pull a little bit now I've stitched it securely (probably too securely!).<br />
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The other bit of important information I missed is tucked away under the section marked Paper Pattern Pieces where it advises that the pleat arrows on piece 21 are marked for size 36 and should be lengthened for other sizes. I made a 38 in the bodice grading out to a 40 at the hip so it isn't much of a difference, but I think that those pleats should have been a bit longer - no one is going to know though and I am definitely not opening up that bodice again to fix it!</div>
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Anyway, in conclusion I love this dress as much as I hoped I would from when I first saw the line drawing, it was interesting to put together and hopefully I will get plenty of wear out of it before it gets too hot.<br />
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<br />AllisonChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07431369603470575306noreply@blogger.com20tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5148903738070733735.post-43234222072889912402018-01-31T19:00:00.001+08:002018-01-31T19:08:42.647+08:00BurdaStyle 10/2017 - 102 Wrap Coat<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
This was not my original plan for this fabric, but I massively underestimated the amount of yardage I needed to match the border pattern. I bought it a couple of years ago in China, it's a symmetrical double border wool fabric.</div>
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I think I traced about 4 coat patterns only to find they would not work with my fabric which I was determined to use before missing another winter season. I decided to go really simple and make this wrap coat from the October 2017 issue of Burda - even then I had to make some modifications.<br />
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<a href="http://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/wrap-coat-102017">10/2017 - 102</a></div>
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EYN44beFdg0/Wmgv4pXnPWI/AAAAAAAANNk/quX-qhT9uBQxuuLlUyj6RZafUAJZphzWACLcBGAs/s1600/1017-102l.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="678" data-original-width="954" height="283" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EYN44beFdg0/Wmgv4pXnPWI/AAAAAAAANNk/quX-qhT9uBQxuuLlUyj6RZafUAJZphzWACLcBGAs/s400/1017-102l.png" width="400" /></a></div>
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I moved the pockets to the side seam so that I wouldn't have to match the pattern, eliminated the centre back seam, lined it to the edge which is just interfaced without a separate facing piece and had to piece the belt. I really want to try and find a RTW belt in red or find some matching wool fabric to make one which I think will look much better.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xU31NAExZhA/WmhuBbvgtnI/AAAAAAAANOc/S--ccdIXXEsxxpIdfOmOvwyOftDyWnHsACLcBGAs/s1600/2018-01-21%2B12.16.06.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xU31NAExZhA/WmhuBbvgtnI/AAAAAAAANOc/S--ccdIXXEsxxpIdfOmOvwyOftDyWnHsACLcBGAs/s320/2018-01-21%2B12.16.06.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Side seam pocket</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Red silk satin lining</td></tr>
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It is a very easy coat to make, I spent far longer on all the tracing and procrastinating than I did on the final sewing.</div>
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Wrap coats are not the most practical of garments to be honest and I am the first to admit that if you are not careful it is really easy to end up with a bathrobe! I made the mistake of trying this on during construction while I was wearing old jeans and slippers and it totally looked like a bathrobe. I almost gave up on it, but although it is not going to be my favourite coat, I'm glad it's done. It is a coat that demands to be worn with heels though.<br />
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<a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5QF11SZSyGE/WnGeRF_aggI/AAAAAAAANVs/C8QCxeyF1VgwMJ3_l6x7fmnfbsfCxtQ4QCLcBGAs/s1600/1017-102a.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1156" data-original-width="1578" height="467" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-5QF11SZSyGE/WnGeRF_aggI/AAAAAAAANVs/C8QCxeyF1VgwMJ3_l6x7fmnfbsfCxtQ4QCLcBGAs/s640/1017-102a.png" width="640" /></a></div>
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AllisonChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07431369603470575306noreply@blogger.com17tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5148903738070733735.post-23379420188812689892018-01-12T15:44:00.000+08:002018-01-12T15:48:33.648+08:00BurdaStyle 01/2018 - 102 Knit TopI've decided to hop on this years BurdaStyle challenge bandwagon. I really want to get better use out of my Burda magazines this year instead of just talking about it. I still have a ton of things I still want to make from 2017, but let's see if I can manage at least one thing from each issue this year. <br />
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I cannot resist twisted, drapy details so choosing this top was a no brainer!<br />
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<a href="http://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/twisted-shirt-012018">01/2018 - 102</a><br />
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I also like the dress, 101 (not on the BurdaStyle website yet, the image below is from the Russian site). Interestingly it has a separate upper bodice pattern piece because the neckline is quite a different shape. Apart from that the pieces are identical so you can swap them around depending on your preference. Personally I prefer the wider neckline and narrower shoulders of the top rather than the more close fitting jewel neckline of the dress so I'm glad I made the top first or I may not have realised from the line drawing. The dress also has a centre back zip which might be needed if you make the narrower neckline, but definitely doesn't need to be long if you don't mind putting things on over your head!<br />
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Being a print fanatic, my stash of plain jerseys is very limited, I used this dark brown colour, I'm not sure yet what to wear it with other than jeans, but that is a good start I guess. I think the pleating and twist detail shows up better in solid fabric, but I might try the dress in a print anyway. (I also really want to use more of my stash fabric this year!).</div>
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I used my usual size 38, grading out below the waist (it's a little big on my dressform, well I should say I have grown larger than my dressform - another resolution for the list). You do need to have the waist fitting closely to keep the twist in place. The back is plain, but the centre back seam gives it a bit of shape.</div>
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I found the instructions pretty good, of course the only potentially tricky bit is the twist pieces so I took some photos during construction. However I think the top (or dress) actually looks quite good even without the twist overlay if you want to keep things really simple. I just roughly pinned the front onto my dressform so you get the idea. </div>
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<b>Twist construction tips</b> </div>
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Keep the pattern piece in front of you when you make the pleats in each draped piece, each end is different. The notches on the top edge mark the centre and on either side of that is the slit marking. The bottom edge self facing has been turned to the wrong side and basted in place along with the pleats.</div>
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Fold one piece in half right sides together at the centre notch and stitch from the slit marking to the pleated edge, this will leave a small hole in the middle.</div>
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Turn right side out and open the piece flat, the seam you just stitched is across the centre, the top and bottom edges are faced and you have a small hole between the slit markings (on the left in the photo below).<br />
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Thread the other draped piece through that hole.<br />
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Fold it so that you can stitch this draped piece in the same way as before - from the pleated edge to the slit marking, right sides together.<br />
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It should look like this from the front when finished, you may need to manipulate the twist a bit to get it sitting neatly. The seams you sewed are across the centre now and the faced edges are top and bottom.<br />
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And from the back - kind of a mess! For non fraying fabrics, which many knits are you don't really need to finish the facing edges, they all end up hidden on the inside.</div>
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As I mentioned it is really important that the twist is taut across the front of the top or it will droop below the waist seam. I need to properly road test it to see if it may also need a couple of invisible stitches to hold it in place at the centre when it's being worn.</div>
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I had to edit the exposure in these photos so you can see the details. The pants are Jalie Eleanor in stretch denim.</div>
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<br />AllisonChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07431369603470575306noreply@blogger.com17tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5148903738070733735.post-69266299622056159772018-01-05T16:42:00.001+08:002018-01-05T16:42:30.927+08:00McCall's 6069 Jersey maxi dressI feel bad for posting a summery maxi dress with bomb cyclones and storm Eleanor wreaking havoc elsewhere, but the reality is this dress won't see the light of day until at least May by which time I will have forgotten all about it. Stay safe and warm out there.<br />
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I spent the holidays in Phuket, Thailand to celebrate my husband's 50th birthday with his large family who came out from the UK. Of course I wanted to make something new to wear, but also something easy and not too dressy. I used McCall's 6069, an easy knit pattern I've made several times before. The pattern envelope calls this a 1 hour dress, but I don't think I'd ever be able to make anything that quickly. Maybe 3 in total?<br />
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I made the sleeveless cowl version, but changed the skirt to maxi length and left a slit in one side seam. The ITY jersey fabric is from China and has all my favourite colours in it so I'm glad to have used it for this special occasion.</div>
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I added a strap across the back (as shown for view C, the square front neck version) otherwise there is a tendency for it to fall off the shoulder with the deep cowl in the back.<br />
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Here are a couple of pictures of me before the party and I have only just noticed now that the back strap needs to be a bit shorter! Oh well!</div>
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Unfortunately this pattern has been out of print now for a while, but if you like easy knit dresses I'd recommend it if you can find it somewhere, I've got good use out of it over the years and am sure I'll use it again. I'm wondering now why I haven't yet made the long sleeve version....</div>
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AllisonChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07431369603470575306noreply@blogger.com16tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5148903738070733735.post-32976315000104154072017-12-20T17:42:00.002+08:002017-12-20T17:42:25.833+08:00Style Arc Halle Stretch Pencil SkirtFirstly thank you for commenting on the knit waistcoat on my previous post - it turns out that the pattern is designed for "wools or blends, boucle" which says woven to me and may explain why I had so many issues making it in a very stretchy knit! Onwards, and paying better attention to suggested fabrics....<br />
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I picked up this pattern in the recent Thanksgiving sale, to be honest it probably would be quite easy to draft it from a knit pencil skirt pattern, but I do really like Style Arc's designs and I am 100% sure they are better at drafting patterns than I am!<br />
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<a href="https://www.stylearc.com/shop/pdf-sewing-patterns/halle-stretch-skirt-pdf/">Halle pdf pattern</a> / <a href="https://www.stylearc.com/shop/sewing-patterns/halle-stretch-skirt/">paper pattern</a><br />
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I made this 3 times in a week so it turned out to be quite good value and clearly a fast and easy pattern. It's designed for ponte & stable knit fabrics. The crossover is quite generous so even when you sit down there is still decent leg coverage. <br />
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There's not a lot to say about the construction, the front skirt pieces are shaped so that the mitred corners are really easy to do, you just need to pay attention to the seam allowances which are marked on the pattern. I added a bit extra at the side seams so I could fit on the way and I figured I might need more than the 3/8ths/8mm allowance to play with - I did this on each version as I find all fabrics behave a bit differently.<br />
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Here are my 3 skirts :<br />
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<b>Version 1 Navy/Black</b><br />
This is from a heavy black ponte with a navy, slightly sparkly, almost snakeskin print on it. Really hard to photograph, but I love this fabric.<br />
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<b>Version 2 Colourblocked</b><br />
A contrast blocked version from remnants which is always very satisfying. The left front and whole back are plain black.<br />
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<b>Version 3 Panel Print</b><br />
I thought the print would look odd with the asymmetric front so I just used the plain back pattern piece for both front and back. I found it to be a bit clingy from static so I lined it with a stretch mesh lining before attaching the waistband elastic.<br />
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This simple skirt is so quick and easy to make that I can see it becoming a bit of a staple in my wardrobe and the plain version will probably be my TNT stretch skirt pattern now. My versions are all for cool weather and quite formal, I'd definitely like to try it in a more casual look like the illustration too. AllisonChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07431369603470575306noreply@blogger.com11tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5148903738070733735.post-80739051917779093872017-12-12T15:53:00.002+08:002017-12-12T15:53:28.925+08:00BurdaStyle 09/2016 - 118 Long Waistcoat & 110 Stretch TrousersTwo pieces from the 9/2016 Burda worn together!<br />
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I first made this long knit waistcoat as a gift for my sister and planned to make one for myself. (<a href="http://allisoncsewinggallery.blogspot.hk/2017/01/burdastyle-092016-118-long-waistcoat.html">previously blogged here</a>). It only took me a year to get around to it!<br />
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<a href="http://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/long-waistcoat-092016">09/2016 - 118 Long Waistcoat</a><br />
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I actually made the trousers at the beginning of the year, but they proved so impossible to photograph that they didn't justify their own blog post. I do want to highlight the pattern though because it is a good one. Designed for stretch fabrics and with front and back seams, a back yoke and a centre back seam in the waistband, you can really easily tweak these and get a great fit.</div>
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Mine are in a black ponte and I left off the ankle zips.</div>
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<a href="http://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/stretch-pencil-trousers-092016">09/2016 - 110 Stretch Trousers</a></div>
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Back to the waistcoat....the version I originally made for my sister was in a knit boucle, a much better fabric choice than this one in a very soft sweater knit which stretched like crazy! I had put the pockets in, but they ended up somewhere near my knees and were quite bulky so I removed them. I also had to trim the collar down considerably and you can see that the hem is wavy also. I might fold it up again and see if that helps.<br />
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This really should have been a quick and easy project, but ended up being incredibly frustrating to make. It is great for our current in between weather though so I am trying to forget all the annoyances!<br />
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AllisonChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07431369603470575306noreply@blogger.com12tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5148903738070733735.post-10659533629764433072017-11-22T18:46:00.001+08:002017-11-22T18:46:26.386+08:00McCall's 7381 DressThank you for the lovely comments on my formal dress and also on my wedding anniversary. Now back to more regular stuff! The weather here in Hong Kong is finally starting to cool down enough to think about long sleeve dresses so I tried out a recent pattern purchase.<br />
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McCall's 7381 is a pretty versatile dress pattern, having 2 bodice, 3 sleeve and 2 skirt variations. I actually made a version that isn't shown, view C knotted bodice with the shorter skirt and long sleeves.<br />
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<a href="https://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m7381">https://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m7381</a><br />
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I cut a size M and folded a bit out of the circumference of the hem sleeve only so that I could fit it onto my 2 yards of fabric. I also found that I could fit it on over my head quite easily so I left off the snap fastenings on the front bodice overlap and just edge stitched it closed.</div>
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If I made the long sleeve version again I'd be tempted to put the sleeve band on before sewing the sleeve seam. It's not as neat a finish, but the sleeve opening is quite small and would not fit onto the free arm of my sewing machine so it was a bit fiddly to do in the round.</div>
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The bodice is lined and the front facings are interfaced so the pleats on the outside stay in place nicely.</div>
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The fabric is a poly print featuring colourful parrots - the nature print obsession continues! - admittedly this one is a bit more twee than I'd usually pick, but I think the black background helps make it look a bit more grown up!</div>
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I really like the finished dress on the dress form, but I am less keen on it on me although I am hoping I can fix it as I'd definitely like to make it again. It looks alright in the photos, but I feel uncomfortable and am constantly fiddling with it. The problems I have are :</div>
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<li>I find the skirt to be quite short even though I took the tiniest hem allowance that I could. I planned to wear this with tights and boots, but even so I feel a bit exposed.</li>
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<li>It's slightly empire line and I think I'd prefer it with a longer bodice so that the waist of the dress hits closer to mine.</li>
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<li>The fabric in the skirt, which is unlined unlike the bodice, is quite static-y and floaty.</li>
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I can make these changes for next time, but to try and save this one I'm thinking of adding a border at the hem in some heavy black crepe I have to both lengthen and weigh down the skirt a bit. I'm also thinking about whether I can add a skirt lining to the waist seam without having to unpick anything. </div>
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I figure I have nothing to lose, but please do let me know what you think or if you have any other ideas.</div>
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<br />AllisonChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07431369603470575306noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5148903738070733735.post-65775826598909573672017-11-09T11:03:00.000+08:002017-11-09T11:03:07.171+08:00BurdaStyle BallgownI don't often go to very formal parties, but when I do I love to make something new. I had no idea what I wanted so I just went fabric shopping and let that provide the inspiration.<br />
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The fabric I chose was a bold floral polyester brocade that I purchased in China. While I was working on it I was amazed to see that <a href="http://goodbyevalentino.com/party-time-vogue-8997/">Goodbye Valentino</a> was working on a dress in the exact fabric. So for once you can actually currently find this fabric at Mood!! - <a href="https://www.moodfabrics.com/red-and-black-3d-floral-brocade-317795">Brocade fabric from Mood</a>.<br />
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This is a mix of 2 patterns, both of which are too old to still feature on the BurdaStyle website unfortunately. I found the images on the Russian site for reference.<br />
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<b>Bodice</b> - 03/2008 - 119<br />
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<b>Skirt</b> - 07/2004 - 134 . Previously made <a href="http://allisoncsewinggallery.blogspot.hk/search/label/07%2F2004">here</a> and once again I left off the chiffon side godet pieces. Also, thank you earlier me for labelling that old blog post so I could find the pattern #.<br />
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I really procrastinated about whether to do the full skirt from the bodice pattern I had chosen, but in the end decided that it might be a bit too much going on with the floral fabric. I think in a strapless style though, a full skirt would look amazing.<br />
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As usual I didn't leave myself a ton of time to make this so I haven't made many notes or taken many photos of the dress during construction, but let's see what I can remember..... <br />
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I interfaced the entire bodice, straightening out the waist seam and moved the darts on the skirt so that they would line up with the princess seams on the bodice. <br />
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With this type of dress I like to finish the whole of the outer dress, then make the lining and attach that by hand. I didn't use the neckline facings, instead just reinforcing the neckline edge with some bias tape and then turning to the inside and hand stitching down. To get a nice point on the centre of the front neckline, I used a small remnant of lining fabric, stitched the shape of the point, clipped, understitched and then turned and pressed to the inside. I did the exact same thing on the lining fabric, without the bias tape and remembered to take a few photos which hopefully show better what I am talking about.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lining remnant stitched right side together at v neckline & clipped at point</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Understitched</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View from right side after turning and pressing</td></tr>
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This is how the finished dress looked on the inside before the lining was sewn in. If you make this I recommend cutting the sleeves with a bit extra seam allowance. I am sure that they are intended to be self lined, but mine did not quite meet up in the middle leaving some exposed edges. It didn't matter since I covered this with lining, but still it was a bit annoying!</div>
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Finally some more photos taken on the night of the party, these are all phone photos that I had to email to myself (thanks to broken cable connection and probably general tech incompetence) so they are a bit blurry, but hopefully you get the idea! Overall I was really happy in my dress, maybe next time I go to a ball I will wear this again rather than make another one!<br />
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The night of the ball also happened to coincide with our 17th wedding anniversary! We had a black tie wedding so my husband is wearing the exact outfit he wore back then, actually the bodice of mine was red with a similar neckline now I think about it, wonder if that was subconsciously in my mind all along!<br />
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<br />AllisonChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07431369603470575306noreply@blogger.com23tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5148903738070733735.post-66001503624232246032017-10-05T09:49:00.000+08:002017-10-05T09:49:15.904+08:00Vogue 1395 Rebecca Taylor DressFirstly thank you for the comments on my shirt making post, it's helpful to know it's not just me that finds shirts difficult, but also to get some recommendations for improving my skills. I will definitely look into the famous David Page Coffin book and Pam Howard's Craftsy class. Also I really should mention it more often, but since I live in Hong Kong practically all my fabric comes from local stores and markets here or in China which I know is of no help to anyone hoping to source the same fabric, sorry!<br />
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Back on more familiar territory now - dresses! This is <a href="https://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v1395">Vogue 1395</a> by Rebecca Taylor in a polka dot linen. <br />
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I cut this out and started it in a print fabric ages ago before I realised that you need a fabric that looks at least similar on both sides otherwise the tie looks a mess so I abandoned it. This is clearly stated on the pattern envelope so I only have myself to blame. I guess you could self line the tie portion of the overlay if you're really set on a certain fabric? My penchant for buying crazy print fabric has meant it has taken me a while to get around to attempting this dress again.<br />
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I had already cut in a size 10, I would usually start with a 12 now, but fortunately this pattern is pretty forgiving in fit. I lengthened the skirt by around 5cm as it looked pretty short and also raised the neckline a bit.<br />
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It's quite easy to put together, there is a lot of narrow hemming to do around all the overlay edges which is a bit time consuming. Once the bodice was put together I just breezed on ahead without looking at the instructions and so forgot to catch the centre back portion of the overlay in the waist seam. When the overlay is tied in place I decided it wouldn't make much difference so I have left it loose.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fHVKCJOxW18/WcmqoZwDFqI/AAAAAAAAJ4k/FDi4yO6FwysmWdjwhMGPsi6kl3gW2TmWQCLcBGAs/s1600/2017-09-16%2B17.01.23.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fHVKCJOxW18/WcmqoZwDFqI/AAAAAAAAJ4k/FDi4yO6FwysmWdjwhMGPsi6kl3gW2TmWQCLcBGAs/s320/2017-09-16%2B17.01.23.jpg" width="240" /></a><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uK__jrQtV44/Wcmqod5vLeI/AAAAAAAAJ4o/171YnPSVHDIGTOi5ZZk6wvdKYmYCLso2ACLcBGAs/s1600/2017-09-16%2B17.01.35.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uK__jrQtV44/Wcmqod5vLeI/AAAAAAAAJ4o/171YnPSVHDIGTOi5ZZk6wvdKYmYCLso2ACLcBGAs/s320/2017-09-16%2B17.01.35.jpg" width="320" /></a><br />
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While I did find a fabric that met the two sides look the same criteria, this linen was a bit stiff for the design, particularly in the sleeve/shoulder area and my sleeves stick out a bit. I absolutely hate altering anything so I am hoping that the fabric will soften with wear and washing, but if not I will have to make the shoulders narrower.<br />
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So to summarise, this is a lovely easy to wear dress pattern, but fabric selection is really important!<br />
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<br />AllisonChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07431369603470575306noreply@blogger.com8tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5148903738070733735.post-50777000868320163062017-09-17T12:15:00.000+08:002017-09-17T12:15:15.855+08:00McCall's 7387 ShirtI have always found shirts quite tricky to make to a standard that I am happy with. However they are something that is hard for me to get to fit right in RTW and I do like wearing them. I also think that with practice I will definitely get better - they are not technically that difficult to sew, they just require precision and some internet research on better techniques than is usually found in pattern instructions.<br />
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Anyway, I think this is a great looking pattern from McCall's, I like all the variations so I'm thinking that if I work through all of them, making changes and improvements along the way I will learn something....<br />
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<a href="https://mccallpattern.mccall.com/m7387">McCall's 7387 Shirts / Shirtdresses</a><br />
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I decided to start with view A and was determined to make it in a lovely soft horse print cotton. I underestimated quite how much of a fabric hog that back piece is with the large pleat so I had to leave off the sleeve bands, but I think the print would have looked strange there as the scale of it isn't really suited to narrow bands.<br />
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I had quite a few problems along the way and this is definitely a project I needed to step back from when I had finished so that I could stop focusing on the things I didn't like about it and look at it as a whole. That said, of course I'm going to dredge up all the problems I had with it here since this is a learning process, but I will not be pointing out any of this stuff when I wear it!</div>
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<b>The fabric itself, well the print anyway, gave me a few problems;</b></div>
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<li>Should I try and match it? I decided not to, I don't think I'd have had enough fabric and just considering how to match the separate front band gave me a headache. I would have preferred not to have horses bottoms down my front band so that could definitely have been planned better!</li>
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<li>The blue horses show through to the wrong side of the fabric so I really should have used a plain white fabric for the yoke facing. I learnt this by the time I got to the collar.</li>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Ghost horses on my back yoke</td></tr>
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<li>When I put my collar on I realised that I hadn't cut it symmetrically and those horses were taunting me so off it came. I didn't have enough fabric to redo the collar the way I wanted so I changed to to a collar stand, with a seam in the centre back.</li>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Really annoying collar pattern placement</td></tr>
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<b>Then there is the pattern which has some good and bad points;</b></div>
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<li>I made a size Medium, it fits perfectly, no adjustments whatsoever. I would have to add some width to the longer versions, but that is easy.</li>
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<li>As I mentioned above, I really like all the variations shown in this pattern.</li>
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<li>I think the instructions should show the burrito method for the back yoke. I'm annoyed that I thought about this afterwards! There are lots of tutorials for this on the internet (<a href="https://closetcasepatterns.com/sewing-a-shirt-yoke-the-burrito-method/">one example from ClosetCasePatterns</a>) and as long as you cut and sew accurately it is a much cleaner and quicker finish.</li>
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<li>The hidden placket seems unnecessarily complicated. I read a few reviews where the reviewer had changed the front bands to a regular shirt front with visible buttons because they couldn't follow the instructions and I thought "I've made closures like this before, how hard can it be?". Well quite hard it turns out! I am certain that in the past I have used a much simpler method with extended fronts that you fold to create the band (<a href="http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/32382/how-to-make-a-hidden-button-placket/page/all">like this from Threads</a>). Here the bands are constructed with lots of separate pieces and then sewn on. There is nothing wrong with the instructions, although the diagrams are quite small, you just need to be very clear which pieces are front band, facing band and fly. Of course this is a perfectly valid, and probably the traditional, method, but then they go and have you just stick a collar on with no collar stand. I don't know, I sound really grumpy writing this out, but I just think make your mind up, is this a formal shirt or isn't it?!</li>
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After all that moaning and putting the shirt into time out for a bit I have come to appreciate it though I'm going to give myself a bit of breathing space before tackling another version!<br />
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<br />AllisonChttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07431369603470575306noreply@blogger.com15