Friday, 2 November 2012

My inbetween project - Burdastyle 08/2008 - 115 Jacket

Thank you for all the advice on the bias nightmare of a dress, I haven't given up on it yet, just parked it to one side.  It's good to know that we have similar ideas and I had already tried some of the suggestions before and during the 3 separate assaults on the side seams.

Another problem with bias cut patterns is that they can be fabric hogs and leave you with odd shaped leftovers.  As luck would have it the front piece of the dress with the skirt on the straight grain fits perfectly onto my leftovers so I took this as a sign and promptly cut it out.  Next step is to unpick practically the whole dress so needless to say that's as far as I have got with that!

Meanwhile I am working on a jacket, this one from 08/2008 Burda in a navy superfine wool.  It has some interesting details although was originally designed to have raw edges everywhere so I am modifying it somewhat.

I am sure I bought this fabric with the intention of making a classic blazer so why I only bought 1.5 yards is a mystery to me and it took a while to find an interesting pattern that would work.  I managed to squeeze out the pieces for this cropped jacket but I have had to piece the facings and the undercollar is cut in a black wool.

Although making a jacket from start to finish can be a lengthy process, it does lend itself to sewing in small chunks of time which is sometimes the way I like to sew.  Here are a few snapshots of bits I've finished - sleeves and back.

 Despite marking you can see one buttonhole on the sleeve flap ended up out of alignment.  I contemplated ignoring it (heck I even contemplated just sewing on buttons and not making buttonholes at all since they have no function), but I knew it would annoy me so out came the unpicker.  In the process I had an epiphany and realised the little bit sticking out the front of my buttonhole foot is there to help you line up buttonholes.
Naughty buttonhole on the left!

Useful sticky out thing on the front

Completed sleeve hem and flap

Inner sleeve darts sewn on the outside

Two completed sleeves

Back peplum and half belt detail (also with real buttonholes)

Finally my thoughts go out to anyone affected by hurricane Sandy.  Here in HK I have become a little blase about the typhoons we get every summer, but the terrible pictures and tragic stories coming from the States reminds us how powerful nature can be.


  1. II've always liked that jacket pattern. Its looking good with all those details.

  2. I made this jacket a few years ago. I made it one size larger and used a heavy weight wool. I wanted this to be my winter coat. I love this jacket so very much and have worn it a lot during the last 2 winters and will wear it again this winter. It is such a great pattern.
    I can't wait to see your finished jacket.

  3. OMG the jacket-the jacket of truth, wisdom and victory. I traced this out three months ago and never made it due to all the reasons-so I cannot wait to the see your completed version of awesomeness. And yea, I traced hem allowances and edgings too XD
    Did you make the lining differently? I kinda traced (by putting pieces over other pieces) a new lining because the one they included was.. like lingerie but the type that doesn't cover anything (awesome but not for a jacket lining- so I 'fixed' it). I have some lovely indigo wool waiting but.. it's getting warm here now..

  4. that jacket is looking so good, lots of nice details. I almost think a jacket is the best way to wear a peplum, adds a bit of flair to a plain jacket. looking forward to seeing it.

  5. Ooooh, all the details are looking really good so far! This jacket is on my list of things to sew (you know, eventually), so I will be very excited to see how yours turns out.

  6. Mmm, wool. So nice to sew with. Looking forward to seeing the finished item!

  7. It's looking wonderful. I am an unpick the buttonhole kind of sewer too, since I know that it will bother me.
    I've never seen a buttonhole foot like that. What machine do you have?

  8. I'm glad you're trying the red dress with the skirt cut on the straight of grain. I hope it works out. Kristy's dress cut that way looks nice, so fingers crossed.

    Clever you to switch to another project and give your patience a rest. It looks fab! Love the pleats/darts on the outside!

  9. I like this pattern of jacket a lot, and can't wait to see your results!

  10. Great job on the sleeve! I live in NJ and was fortunat during "Sandy" however many people lot there homes and loved ones it was a very damaging storm.

  11. Can't wait to see the finished jacket. It looks great so far.

  12. What a perfectly executed jacket. Love the sleeve details.

  13. Was this jacket in a purple/pink wool in the photo? I am sure that is the same jacket I fell in love with aaages ago too but with the note about unfinished edges and having never made a jacket before I put it aside until I was more confidant. Well I've made a few jackets now so I should really look back at it, 4 years later and I still like it, thanks for the reminder :)

  14. Well, I never knew about the useful sticky out thing but sure can use it! I make so many marks to do my buttonholes! Neato! And your jacket is just beautiful. I love your details and stitching.

  15. That jacket is going to be great! Love the external dart detail on the sleeve.

  16. Too bad about the red dress. Great style and beautiful fabric.

    The jacket is a perfect distraction. The details are splendid. Love the tucks on the sleeve. The sleeve flaps are great too.

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  19. Love love love the detailing you've done so far.
    I can wait until it's done because it's going to look wonderful.

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