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Friday, 20 July 2018

BurdaStyle 07/2018 - 113 Knot Dress

I loved this pattern from the July issue of Burda Style and made it in record time (for me anyway) for a whistle stop trip in the UK before heading to Italy for a holiday.


https://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/knotted-neckline-dress-072018

The knot detail at the neck is really interesting, I had assumed it was just a simple slit in the centre front seam, but the pattern pieces are curved and lined so that you end up with a circle that stands out from the bodice a bit.  This creates nice gathers when you add the loop in later.  Fortunately this part of the instructions has an illustration which helps a bit.





I made a size 40 and added around 20cm to the length of the skirt so that it would be midi length (I was making this to wear to Henley Regatta in the UK which has a strict, if slightly prehistoric dress code - nothing above the knee, no trousers or culottes).

I used quite a loud crepe print in shades of pink, orange, black & cream.  It is a complete accident that I ended up with a neat little cream diamond shape at the centre front bodice seam as I did not even attempt any pattern matching.






I really love the finished dress, the v neckline and cut on sleeve style are  my personal favourite shapes and I would like to make it again, perhaps in a solid colour.  

The weather in the UK was absolutely glorious, it was pretty hot the day I wore this and it was really comfortable although it creased a bit from sitting.




It's not like this all day, but these photos from the event amused me - largely empty deckchairs for viewing the rowing and a jam packed bar!   (No judgement from me, I was doing the same!).





Thursday, 7 June 2018

Vogue 9293 Dresses

This pattern is from the Vogue Easy Options range and has a number of different skirt and sleeve options to create different looks.  I used the pattern to make not one, but two cocktail dresses for two events I went to recently!

https://voguepatterns.mccall.com/v9293




The first was a formal black tie dinner and I didn't want to wear the full length ballgown I made last year (see post here). I did however have a lot of that same brocade fabric left.  Originally I was thinking of making a full skirted ballgown, plus there was a separate piece on the bolt they gave me - I probably still have enough for a jacket or pencil skirt, but I'm kind of done with this fabric for now!

Brocade is not one of the recommended fabrics (seersucker, linen, challis, broadcloth) for this dress, but I thought it would work and chose view A, the short sleeved, full skirted version.




I left off the pockets and also lowered the neckline a bit.  I just did this by folding the edge over on my dressform and ended up creating a small v at the back neckline too, just to get it to sit nicely.  The original neckline is finished with bias tape, but I decided to create a facing piece to match my new neckline which I then interfaced to give it a bit more structure in my brocade fabric.

I sewed the side seams last as is my preference so I can fine tune the fit in the bodice.  The hems were all finished invisibly by hand which was faster than I expected as the texture of the brocade hides everything.



Despite the small risk taken with completely ignoring the fabric recommendations, I'm really happy with my cocktail dress.  It was comfortable to wear and great for dancing - sorry no photographic evidence!





Just a week later I had another, smaller dinner to go to which was Oscars themed and I decided it was time for a new LBD cocktail dress in my wardrobe.  We had visitors that week too so with limited time I just pulled out this pattern again and made View D, the short sleeved, pencil skirted version.



I used a black silk dupion which I underlined with black silk organza and basically made in the exact same way as the first version.  I always use this underlining method when sewing with dupion, it gives it a bit more body and means that no stitching is visible on the outside as all the hems can be hand stitched to the underlining.





Surely now I have a dress for just about any formal occasion!?  I love both of these dresses and I think this is a great pattern, although you may want to check if the neckline is also too high for you.

Maybe one of these days I will get around to making a version in one of the recommended fabrics!


Wednesday, 25 April 2018

BurdaStyle 04/2018 - 108 Blouse

I like a lot of things in the April issue of BurdaStyle, but I always like to start things off with something easy.  This is #108, the ruffle sleeved blouse.  The magazine refers to view A and B, but the only difference is the fabric, which is kind of cheating a bit if you ask me!

http://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/ruffle-sleeve-top-042018



No one can ever say I am an early adopter of trends, but it seems that eventually they grow on me, or perhaps just become unavoidable and wear me down!  Now it is the turn of ruffles although I'm really only dipping my toes as I left off the ruffles at the shoulder and the sleeve ones are quite subtle.  The instructions say to leave the edges of the ruffles raw, but I'm not quite ready to go that far yet so mine are finished with a narrow hem.


As you can see from the line drawing it is very boxy - in fact it is practically a square and when I went to sew the side seams I ended up sewing the front and back hems together instead - doh!! 

I thought the neckline bias facing would be difficult at the V, but the instructions have a really good  method and you just fold the ends at that point and clip after sewing. 


I cut the neckline at the smallest size and it still has a tendency to slip off the shoulder a bit so I will probably go back and add some shoulder stays to stop that so I'm not fussing with it when I wear it.


It is pretty quick and easy to make and I used a remnant of this soft cotton print so I think it will be great for the summer.  





I didn't intend for it to be worn with the skirt I made recently from the same fabric, but it works so I might use these pieces as a jumping off point for a mini summer wardrobe.









Saturday, 21 April 2018

BurdaStyle 01/2018 - 121 Skirt

I completely overlooked this skirt (121) in the January 2018 issue of BurdaStyle, the magazine photo is completely uninspiring, although now that I have made it I can see that it would make a nice winter skirt - oh well, next year!

http://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/winter-skirt-012018



It was only when browsing through my instagram feed that I came across a gorgeous skirt by Lone Star Couture - you can see it on her blog here -http://lonestarcouture.blogspot.hk/2018/03/my-easter-confection.html.  I didn't recognise the skirt pattern at all and had to go and dig out my magazine.

What I love about this pattern is that it has a full front, with the pleats stitched down to control the fullness at the waist and a plain aline back.  Now I know this isn't really groundbreaking, but I haven't come across it before.  Full skirts can be a bit...too full on my hips, although I love the look so this seems like a perfect solution.



Construction is very straightforward although I did get a bit confused putting in the pockets.  They are shaped so they go right up to the waist seam which is good as it keeps them in place.  I'm not sure I set them in the correct way.  Still, they work and look OK so that will do.  I'll see how much I use the pockets.  I know some people go mad for pockets and I admit they are good for posing in, but I don't think I'd ever put anything in them.  Without the pockets this will be even quicker and easier to sew and I can see a few of these in my summer wardrobe this year.  


So, don't be put off by Burda's magazine photo or the description of a winter skirt - this is a great basic pattern that will work in a variety of fabrics.

I'm wearing it here with Style Arc Madeleine ponte top






Thursday, 29 March 2018

BurdaStyle 11/2015 - 105 Godet Skirt

Isn't it a great feeling when you choose a pattern from one of your Burda magazines only to find that at some point in the past you had already traced it!

That might be part of it, but this skirt is currently my favourite thing and someone may have to stop me making a whole wardrobe of them.

11/2015 - 105




To be honest I'm not completely sold on the colour block version, but the cut is lovely - somewhat fitted in the waist and hips and then all swishy from there down.  It will be perfect for our hot summer weather, not that I have been waiting to wear it - it's great for spring too with a casual denim jacket.

This one is in a very soft cotton floral print.  I love the colours in this and although I'm wearing it with an obvious black knit top here, it will work well with khaki, raspberry and cream so I'll be looking out for fabric for some coordinating pieces.


Getting the seams to meet perfectly at a point is hard, but fortunately the print covers a multitude of sins.  If you're doing the colour block version some serious marking and basting will be needed.