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Thursday, 21 November 2013

BurdaStyle 11/2013 - 117 Jacket

As soon as I saw this jacket in the November Burda magazine I knew I had to make it and had the pattern traced out the day I got the magazine.  Finishing it took a little longer, but hey, it is still November!





If you don't have this issue then the good news is that the pattern is available for download here.

I'm not quite sure what fabric Burda used, mine is a charcoal coloured doubleknit and it didn't have anywhere near the amount of body that their fabric does.  I quite like big dramatic collars, in fact that was one reason I was attracted to this pattern, but it needs to be in the right fabric to work.  I found it worked better if I took some of the volume out of the collar - approximately 3 inches off the straight back edge.  I also decided to face the collar so I cut two additional pieces and stitched them to the outer pieces before sewing in the right hand side of the zip and then securing them to the seam allowances on the inside.  This gives the front and collar a bit more structure than a single layer of doubleknit.  Mine is still more of a sweatshirt than a jacket, certainly in the way it feels to wear it, but this is a good thing!




My jacket is a much simpler version in that the sleeves are in the same fabric as the body of the jacket rather than in faux leather and I didn't add the leather trim around the outside edges, mostly because I couldn't quite find the right trim and I liked the look of it as it was.



I found the instructions to be hard to follow, but that might have been my fault, they are quite long, my attention span is quite short and it's possible I missed bits.  That said, it is a fairly straightforward pattern to put together, but you must label the peplum pieces carefully because they kind of all look the same.

The sleeves were insanely long, but I think they are meant to be worn scrunched up, I knew that would drive me nuts so I removed the seam allowance, added a really deep hem and they are still pretty long.  The final step is to add 2 snaps and I recommend trying the jacket on to see where you want to place them to get the fit right rather than just relying on the instructions.



I love how this turned out in the end, a really cosy, comfortable, but still fitted moto jacket and the shape should work with lots of different bottom pieces.


26 comments:

T. Sedai said...

Cute! Knew it wouldn't be long before someone sewed this pattern up - yours looks fabulous and cozy!

themateriallady said...

Very nice. I was tempted by this in the magazine but I'm still not certain it is 'me'.
You look so good in it I may give it a chance.

Marianne said...

If I remember correctly Burda used Punta di Roma. That's not as specific as it seems cause I've seen different weights of it. Couldn't it be that part of the stiffness in the collar comes from the leather trim? I certainly love your version!

ElleC said...

Nice, I prefer your version to the Burda one, I am getting tempted to try this pattern now. I really like this, great job.

Linda said...

I really like your version of this jacket pattern. I like the style and thought about it for me but I am always concerned about the collar and whether it would overwhelm me or not.

Great job!

It's Melanie Darling said...

Very nice. I need this in my life.

Melody Murdock said...

So gorgeous, amazing work.

cidell said...

I love a moto style jacket. I've never made one. But, I LOVE them. If you can, I'd be interested to see/ hear what it looks like further zipped up. Does it make sort of a funnel collar?

Nancy K said...

I love this style jacket and it's on my list too. I have read through the instructions twice, and it's not you. They left out a step. The one where after you attach the zipper you need to sew on the cf pieces. I don't think that they tell you you've got to sew them together either.
But, it's great and I like your idea of of doubling the collar since you didn't use the leather to bind it. I am thinking that I'd like this in a sweater knit that I've got. So glad you made this first! Love it.

Lin C said...

That looks really great. But whose arm is that in the Burda photo? It can't be a mirror image. :-D

Alicia said...

Great jacket! Your version seems to be more comfortable than the original. And by the way, I always find hard to understand Burda's instructions.

Susan said...

I am in love with your jacket. Even without the extra whistles and bells, yours is a knock-out.

Clio said...

Cosy! I like how yours is a slouchier more relaxed look.

Sue said...

Great jacket - now I just need my November issue to arrive!!

Catherine Daze said...

The collar frames your face beautifully. It's very Rick Owens too. I wasn't convinced by the collar finishing instructions so I think the facing was a very good idea.

Printingtextil Natasha said...

I love this jacket and yours is fantastic!

Jane M said...

Can't believe I'm looking at mot jacket patterns (afraid of the mutton and lamb problem) but your version is perfect....cozy and warm, stylish and chic. Bravo!

MrsSmith said...

I wanted this the minute I saw it! I have yet to download it as I haven't found the right fabric yet but I figured it'd be made up quickly by someone :)

Very nice! It looks great on you and the fit is perfect!

SEWN said...

Looks fantastic! Love this on you.

Merche Martinez said...

I like your version so much more than the Burda version. Brilliant!

Vicki said...

Nice! Turned out really well.

Levone said...

Love your jacket, now this I could wear! While I liked the pattern in the magazine, it's just not 'my' style but I would definitely wear the one you made up.

thecuriouskiwi said...

Oh I think I am going to have to buy this pattern - I really love the "softer" look of your version but I can also see it in a stiffer wool - ohh, filing it away for next winter :)

theperfectnose said...

It's beeutiful! I love massive collars but I like the softer silhouette you've achieved with this pattern. I bought this mag mainlh for the fold over pants (love the jacket but I have a similar one already) and the skirt with the hip pleats and then realised the pants are only tall sizes.. XD

Cha-Cha said...

So glad someone made this up! your version is gorgeous and looks totally comfy. Best get this on my list!

Tia Dia said...

Love this, Allison! What a great shape for a jacket. It will go with everything! I've had this earmarked for DD1 at some point. I wondered about the fabric Burda used, too, because the collar seems to be stiffer than a doubleknit or ponte would be. Maybe they interfaced the bejeebers out of it.