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Tuesday, January 14, 2014

Style Arc Marita Dress(es & top)

This pattern claims to be a 1 hour sew and for once I think it's actually true. It's certainly very fast and a very clever design, it looks a lot more complicated than it is.  Sorry for the picture heavy post but I have made 3 versions of this so lots to show you - a New Year special offer!

Style Arc Marita Dress


That said I got stuck very early on largely because the instructions refer to the back neck facing piece which on the paper pattern is called a collar.  Once I looked at the line drawing of the back of the dress and realised there was a collar and smacked myself on the forehead it was simple.  I was trying to fold it in like a facing, doh!  I didn't find the diagram of the whole shoulder seam/ facing construction to be very helpful, although I knew what they were getting at as it is a finish I've used in Burda and Vogue, so I took some photos of these steps.

The facing/collar is folded right sides out, stitched to the back neckline and the seam allowances pressed down towards the body of the dress

Pin shoulder seams leaving facing/collar free for the moment

Fold the front facing over the back collar/facing and pin.  You need to get the collar edge right in the fold to get a neat finish at the end

Stitch and finish seam

Unfold the front facing, this is how it looks on the inside

And this is how it looks on the outside

The first two versions of this pattern were made using fabric I have a ton of because I bought the end of the bolt in both cases.  They are both wearable muslins, but useful to determine the adjustments I needed to make in the final version.  My pattern is a size 10.

Version 1 Teal doubleknit
Style Arc helpfully provide a swatch of fabric they recommend using and in this case it is quite a lightweight drapy knit.  While I am happy wearing such a thin knit on my top half I find it too flimsy for my bottom half in a straight silhouette.  So some experimentation was in order.  Doubleknit is not the recommended fabric so unsurprisingly this version was a little bit tight, especially the sleeves and the drape is a lot more structured and asymmetrical than it is supposed to be because the side with the tuck behaves a lot differently to the side with a dart.





Version 2 Crazy ITY print top
This fabric is pretty close to the recommended weight.  My friend in Shanghai bought this for me and I plan to make another version of this maxi dress in the summer.  I realise that the scale of the print is all wrong for a long sleeved top, it might work as a sleeveless version for summer, but for now I will wear it as a layering top.  I widened the sleeves on this version and was much happier with the fit of them, the drape also does what it is supposed to in this lighter fabric.  In a plainer fabric I think this will be a great top either with or without sleeves.




Version 3 Sensible ITY print dress
Armed with the things I'd learnt from my two experiments I cut into some ITY knit with a geometric print in great winter colours.





This is a great pattern and I am sure I will use it again.  Compared to my usual Burda magazine patterns indie patterns that need shipping are quite expensive but I feel I've got good value for money here.  It's quick to make, works as a top or a dress, the sleeves can be swapped out for shorter ones or left sleeveless.  3 in a row is probably enough for the moment, but I'm sure it won't be long before this comes out again.

25 comments:

Coco said...

Beautiful, all three! Love the teal, classic. very nice work!

Wilmotts Wonders said...

They look great - I especially love the third one, really compliments your figure!

themateriallady said...

I like then all - and the top looks great under your suit jacket so I think that works just fine too.
You have made the case to go check out the Style Arc pattern catalogue!

Nancy K said...

Thanks so much for showing the neckline treatment as I have a terrible time figuring out these neckline treatments and I have this pattern. That said, this looks great on you and using it as a top is a great way to get your money's worth out of an expensive pattern.

Beth (SunnyGal Studio) said...

how great to reuse the pattern, it looks so good on you. love that 3rd fabric.

K.Line said...

Ah, another Style Arc pattern for me to buy...

Dawn said...

I love, love, love your red version!

T. Sedai said...

Nice! Love all of the versions, but the teal might be my favorite.

Clio said...

All three are great on you! It seems like Style Arc is pretty well drafted and definitely stylish too.

Tany said...

Outstanding job!! All three versions look wonderful!

meli88a said...

What a great design. It's hard to tell that each version is from the same pattern, the fabrics are so different. I'm not sure which is my favorite!

Ruth said...

I must admit that your real life versions look so much better than the pattern drawing. The fabric of your top is just fabulous. I think all three of your makes are successes!

Amanda S. said...

The red dress is definitely my favorite! These look great on you! Send some of that sewing mojo my way please.

coffeeaddict said...

As always a wonderful choice of pattern, fabric and execution :-)

You look great in all three versions of the pattern!

Audrey said...

I appreciate all the photos of the different versions. All are lovely. I even like the top sewn from a print fabric, which I wouldn't have thought to use myself. As you say the draping is not quite as symmetrical and "X" shaped as the pattern illustration. I have this pattern. After reading the instructions, I was a bit puzzled as to how the X in the drawing was achieved so I set it aside.

Audrey said...

I appreciate all the photos of the different versions. All are lovely. I even like the top sewn from a print fabric, which I wouldn't have thought to use myself. As you say the draping is not quite as symmetrical and "X" shaped as the pattern illustration. I have this pattern. After reading the instructions, I was a bit puzzled as to how the X in the drawing was achieved so I set it aside.

Merche Martinez said...

Thank you for showing us all three versions.My favourite is the last one, but I´ll be happy having any of them in my closet!!
Once more, you inspire me to buy yet another pattern!!!

Jean said...

Definitely good value here, as it is a versatile style. The third version is great -- third time's a charm! I really like the print on your second version -- it will make a great summer maxi dress. I'm trying to get myself to start sewing knits -- I've shied away from them after some very bad past experiences -- so your pieces are inspirational!

Gail said...

Great style. My favourite is the plain coloured version.

asisewit said...

Lovely. I really really like the last dress. Looks wonderful on you. I think it also shows the cross over the best too, but maybe that is just the photos. Well done! ~Teri

The Slapdash Sewist said...

You are really tempting me with this pattern! I like all three versions, though I think maybe the last is my favorite? I don't know--they all look great on you!

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

I'm loving all of your versions too! I don't think the fabric that you used for the top is too much, I actually love it, especially under the suit! It gives it such life. What a wonderful use of the pattern - just love both of the dresses.

Linda said...

Your dresses/top look great. Nice fabrics!

Vicki said...

Lovely on you. Can't see the X but no matter. I think the fabric for the top version is fine.

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