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Wednesday, 2 December 2015

BurdaStyle 10/2015 - 111 Dress

This is the dress featured on the cover of the October Burda, a sheath dress with a v back and a small cowl front neckline (also available as a pdf at the link below).  It's not too clear from the line drawing, but the vertical darts are open at both ends on the back and open at the top on the front.  I've also made the top version of the dress (110) and the matching capelet (108).  The construction is identical, but the look is so different that I'll put that in a separate post.  If you want to make both the dress and the top and don't have the magazine then don't buy 2 pdf patterns, Burda really should bundle them together I think.

(Edited to add : thanks Sue for pointing out that today only (2/12) the top pattern is available for just 25 cents!)

BurdaStyle 10/2015 - 111



I used a textured stretch cotton jacquard, but - and this is a big but - I didn't even notice I had cut it with the stretch going vertically until I tried it on before finishing the side seams!  Surprisingly it wasn't the disaster it might have been, but getting it on and off was a very undignified affair so my plans to skip the zipper went by the wayside and I inserted an invisible zip in the side seam.  With a stretch fabric used properly you may be able to skip the zip, you definitely can on the top (my top is in quite a heavyweight ponte so the drape is similar to this dress fabric).


This dress is the sewing lesson for the month so the instructions are more detailed than usual and also have diagrams so it's a good one to try if Burda's instructions are too minimal for you or you are a Burda beginner.





It is a pretty straightforward sew, the only fiddly bit is attaching the back neck bands which are extensions from the front piece and wrap around after joining the shoulder seams.  Rather like sewing an inset corner, you need to carefully mark the point where the band meets the centre back seam and stitch the 2 sides one by one so you can finish exactly at that centre back point.  Mine is pulling a bit even after doing this - it's quite bulky there -  so maybe basting each side separately first would be a good idea.



I cut the armhole facings from some scraps of black ponte just because I thought my textured fabric was a bit lumpy.  After attaching them, I decided to topstitch the armholes and trim off the excess.  I also sewed a deep hem by machine, nothing really shows in this fabric.

I like how the stiffness of the fabric makes the collar stand up at the front, I like this kind of structural detail.  Despite my silly error in cutting - and I'm still not sure if the stretch went along the selvedge or I cut it by mistake because I have none left - the dress worked out well and had enough give in it for me to comfortably wear it out to dinner.


Terrible back photo, but you can see here that the v is a good, wearable depth



















21 comments:

Beth (SunnyGal Studio) said...

what a great dress, so sophisticated. I think Burda is on a roll lately, some really interesting and pretty dresses. I have done that with cutting the stretch going up and down instead of around - on a denim jacket. so it is OK, but a bit constricting. Now I always double check before cutting. and I bet you will too :)

Dilliander said...

This is so lovely Alison, very elegant! Thanks for sharing the details and pattern link.

mags said...

Lovely dress, the fit looks great and I love the neckline front and back. I've been put off the tracing from the magazine but a PDF I could cope with.

Doctor T Designs said...

Ah, I love it! The dress is so pretty, I'm glad it was still wearable even with the cutting error.

Lita said...

Your dress is very beautiful. I saw the pattern and planing to sew it too. Good to know the instructions are good.

The Material Lady said...

Very nice dress, and I love the neckline.

Vicki said...

Lovely dress and pretty fabric.

Summer Flies said...

Very nice dress. I like that the v back isn't as low as I would have thought and by the look of the drawing. I cut some jeans out of a very stretch fabric (ages ago) and I debated whether or not I should use it for the jeans and not a jacket and then of course it was with the stretch the wrong way. I don't know if jeans will be quite so forgiving... but yes, it's easily done.

Sue said...

Amazing timing - the top version of this dress is available today for 25 cents and l bought it. Loving your version! Looks a winner!

Irene said...

Such a lovely dress!

Jenny said...

Very pretty! I love necklines like that.

Jenny said...

This looks really nice. I like the classic shape with the unique neckline.

badmomgoodmom said...

Your dress came out gorgeous. The blouse is on my to-sew list.

How did you get the bands not to stick up at the back shoulders? All the other versions on PR shared that upright neck band problem. Did you alter the pattern?

MAD14kt said...

BEAUTIFUL on you :) I just bought the top (I've wanted it for the longest)!!! Thanks Sue for the heads up on the 25 cents ... FIESTA :)

Karen said...

Very modern day Audrey Hepburn look! Love your make! I got this issue primarily for this dress. Let's hope I actually make it and not just admire it for months on end.

velosewer said...

You look great in this dress. The fabric and style is such a great choice. I'll be bookmarking this dress Allison:)

Sewingelle said...

Gorgeous. Lovely to know this dress looks so good. I liked it a lot in the magazine and now I like it even more.

Shannon said...

This looks great! I'd love to give this pattern a try.

Wheelchair said...

Hey, very nice site. I came across this on Google, and I am stoked that I did. I will definitely be coming back here more often. Wish I could add to the conversation and bring a bit more to the table, but am just taking in as much info as I can at the moment. Thanks for sharing.
Travel Wheelchair

Keep Posting:)

Tia Dia said...

I love your fabric choice. This is such a great pattern, and the V-back is a great design feature. Looks fabulous!

Sharon said...

Gorgeous fabric and fantastic dress, how does the front cowl wear?