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Sunday, 13 March 2016

BurdaStyle 12/2015 - 110A Dress

It feels like ages since I made a dress from BurdaStyle, there was a time when I made almost nothing else.  I really liked the lines on this dress, although I'm not sure how often I will have the occasion to wear it, long sleeve season is pretty short here and this dress is quite formal.

http://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/34-sleeve-dress-122015







I cut a 38 grading out to a 40 below the waist and made a few adjustments during construction:

  • This was the tall pattern, designed for heights of 5'9 rather than 5'6.  I shortened the dress by around 4 inches so that it was knee length on me.  I'm sure the pattern is drafted with extra length in the torso too, but I didn't find it necessary to alter anywhere other than the hem.
  • I found the sleeves to be really narrow so I had to recut them in a bigger size which of course gave me all kinds of problems setting in the sleeve.  There is a dart at the top of the sleeve which is supposed to be sewn at the same time as the shoulder seam, but I found it much easier to get the sleeve in by stitching the dart first and then setting it in the standard way.  It doesn't look as smooth done this way, but I'm treating it as a design feature!
  • I ditched the neck facing and instead used a folded bias strip to finish the neckline.  I topstitched the neckline to secure the bias strip and narrow hemmed the skirt and sleeves.  I find some fabrics are impossible to hem invisibly and I'd rather have neat machine stitching showing than my imperfect (not) invisible hand stitching.

The pleats in the skirt are held in place by a piece of lining that acts as a stay, it's a really nice feature.


The fabric I used is a navy drapy dress fabric, probably a poly crepe.  It has a nice weight and drape, but is not easy to press well.  The magazine sample uses a jersey for the short version and a stretch crepe for the maxi version although the fabric recommendations are "dress fabrics with or without elastane".  Some stretch would have probably avoided my tight sleeve issue, but otherwise it's true that stretch is optional.

Taking photos of navy clothing is as tricky as black, but hopefully you get the idea.  It's a cute dress, I just need to find somewhere to wear it!








19 comments:

katherine h said...

You are right, it is a cute dress.

Perhaps you could make a sleeveless version for warmer weather?

alethia said...

Elegant and simple at the same time.

Ida13 said...

I really like this dress, especially on you! Good job!

Marie-Noëlle Lafosse said...

Yours looks so much better than the magazine's. Make me want to make one too.

Nilla said...

What a nice idea to shorten the dress! I like this dress too, but I'm having a hard time deciding if the dress would fit my figure or not. What is your impression - as someone who tries to camouflage their tummy, would this be a good choice?

Jenny said...

Your new dress is beautiful! Definitely find somewhere to wear it soon. Perhaps an over-air conditioned theater?

Amanda S. said...

I love the lines of this dress too. It's really interesting!

cidell said...

Wow. What a gorgeous dress. I LOVE it in black. This would have been perfect for my old work wardrobe.

Beth (SunnyGal Studio) said...

so pretty, that pattern always caught my eye and I'm glad to see it sewn up.

SewCraftyChemist said...

It's BEAUTIFUL!!!! I love it in black and the pleats are awesome!

velosewer said...

That is a cute dress. I love your style choices.

Faye Lewis said...

I love it, nice fit Allison!

Kristy Chan said...

Gorgeous, I think you need to create an occassion especially to wear this! I've been whether this was worth the effort of grading it down to an average height, and I think the answer is definitely yes

The Sewing CPA said...

Very pretty dress. It suits you well.

thecuriouskiwi said...

It's fabulous! xx

Vicki said...

Looks very nice on. And Navy is so current.

Audrey said...

This pattern caught my eye too. The draping
is achieved in a bit more controlled way, than similar style dress patterns Burda has published lately (odd shaped looping pattern pieces). It is a really cute dress.

Tia Dia said...

This is just gorgeous. I much prefer it in your dark colour than the light one Burda made up. Stunning!

Nancy K said...

Great dress! It's nice to have something like this in your closet for those occasions you do need something formal in the winter:)