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Saturday, 4 March 2017

BurdaStyle 12/2015 - 108 Moto Peplum Jacket

Despite whinging about Burda throughout 2015, towards the end of the year things definitely improved and one of my favourite patterns from the whole year was this jacket.

http://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/biker-style-peplum-jacket-122015

There are 2 versions - a cropped collarless version, shown in boucle in the magazine and the peplum version with a mandarin collar, shown in wool and leather.



I made version B, but all in one fabric, a stretch denim.  I left off the armband pieces, sleeve zippers and lining and added topstitching to the section seams.



Tracing this pattern is a bit of a chore, there are lots of small pieces.  However once that work is done it goes together pretty quickly.  In fact I got a bit carried away and sewed up (and serged and topstitched!) the left middle front seam before remembering I needed to put a zip in it!



Ah, the zip.  This is where I ran into problems.  The pattern requires a 12 inch separating zip  I wanted navy with metal teeth and a nice zipper pull and I could only find longer ones.  No problem I thought, I can easily shorten it.  Ha!  I don't know if I bought the strongest zip known to man or I am a complete weakling, but getting those teeth off even with the recommended wire cutting pliers
was an exercise in frustration and really hard to do without damaging the zip tape or my hands.  All the tutorials I found online went into great detail about measuring the zip and then just basically said "now pull off the teeth".   I managed in the end, but I couldn't get the stoppers off at all to move them so I just sewed thread stoppers which will hopefully be OK.   I do really like this jacket so if I ever spot any 12 inch zips while shopping I am buying them!


As usual with shirts and jackets I put in the collar and facings before sewing up the side seams.  I find it much easier to handle the garment when it is still flat and that means I can do final fit adjustments in the side seams.

The collar is assembled like a regular notched collar, which is a bit fiddly - I'm wondering whether it would work to just sandwich the completed collar between the jacket and facing and sew in one pass. Other than that, I think this jacket is easier to sew than it looks (zipper issues aside) and of course the collarless View A would be simpler still.



I think denim is a neutral that works with just about anything - except more denim although that's just my opinion, I know it was a thing recently.  I also think this fitted style will work styled in lots of ways, say as a casual topper thrown over a dress to a smarter look over a pencil skirt.  I think I prefer it slightly unzipped than how the model is wearing it, but it's always good to have options.



21 comments:

sewingkm said...

This is such a great jacket - perfectly fitted and sewn. You are so 'on trend' using denim as your fashion fabric and the pattern is a unique take on a moto jacket. Karen

Mariela Alethia said...

Beautiful Jacket.

Jen L said...

Wow-looks terrific! I have had that problem with zippers too, at least some YKKs seem to have exceptionally strong tooth bonds. Great for zipper longevity, not so great for altering. I now try to have them shortened in advance at my local zipper store (NYC), but unfortunately that option is not available to all.

Beth (SunnyGal Studio) said...

fantastic - I love it, it looks great. I just saw a similar jacket in an older Burda mag and am thinking about sewing it despite my fear of separating zippers. and denim - perfect choice.

KS_Sews said...

This is gorgeous!! So well done, despitethe zipper issues.

Laura Casey said...

This is a great looking jacket....think you need to make another in a bright accent color that you can wear with black......a very good make indeed.
Laura

deadlycraft said...

This is gorgeous! I love how smart that colour of denim looks.

Irene said...

Your jacket is perfect! I'm finding that a denim jacket seems to go with absolutely (well, almost) everything. Zippers always seem to be a problem. They're either too long, too short or not the right colour. Still, we make do, and yours turned out just right.

Gail said...

Love it! The peplum gives the moto a more elegant look and the denim, an inspired choice.

Deborah Jalving said...

Well done! I was considering that pattern and now I'm definite! Thanks for posting!

Sharon said...

Brilliant jacket, love the collar on it and the use of denim and as Gail said the peplum gives it a more elegant look.

Now for YKK zippers I use Zipperstop for anything that I can't find here in Sydney and they will also cut them to size for a small fee.

Tracie said...

I love it!
Am visiting NZ in early April so let me know if there are miscellaneous items you might need

Sewingelle said...

This is awesome. Love this pattern.

Ruth said...

Immaculate! You look really well in this combination

Doctor T Designs said...

Ah, I love it! It looks amazing, the fit and style are total perfection.

Amanda S. said...

What an amazing jacket! The fit is drool worthy. Just WOW! I'm very tempted to print out the pdf, and I'd have to learn how to do it as I've never done that before.

ML said...

The jacket looks great on you! Ive looked at that pattern before, may have to give it another go. I found diagonal cutting pliers do a good job on metal YKK teeth, not sure what they are called outside the US. But you can ease the tip to cut off one tooth at a time.

cidell said...

Wow. I love it. The seam details reply pop with the topstitching.

mezzocouture.com said...

This is such a great jacket! The fit is spot-on.

Audrey said...

Great looking jacket. And you nailed the fit. Finding the right size and color of separating zippers for jackets is soooo frustrating. I once put a non separating zipper in a jacket because I couldn't find a separating zipper in the needed color. Which meant I had to pull the jacket on and off over my head. Not the best idea.

Virginie said...

Absolutely love this! It's chic and classy and it fits you perfectly - what a great piece to have in your wardrobe!