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Thursday, August 11, 2011

Burda Style 07/2011 - 110 Dress

My sewing has been a little haphazard lately with lots of things being traced and started, but for one reason or another nothing was getting finished.  Before my sewing room filled up with UFOs I decided to get my head down and finish this dress - it's from the July issue of Burda Style, #110.  




This is actually sized for petites, but the measurement chart is very helpful so I compared the petite and regular measurements and just added back what I needed in the bodice pieces by slashing them and inserting extra paper.  Strictly I should have added some both above and below the bust, but from my measurements I just adjusted by 1.5cm just above the height of the front inserts so that I didn't have to mess with them, as there is some shaping built into those seams.  

Other than that I followed the instructions - this is the illustrated pattern for the month - and I found them pretty good.  The pattern is really well drafted and everything matches and meets where it is supposed to.  For once I even included the pockets and love them!  Naturally with the pleats and the pockets there is a bit of "pouffyness" going on at the front, which would normally put me off trying a style like this, but it just goes to show you need to step out of your comfort zone and try new things sometimes.  The wide shoulders also help to balance the look as do the contrast front panels.



Here is a close up of the front panels, I just used the reverse side of the fabric on the cross grain, or maybe it was the right side of the fabric, I'm not sure - anyway the other side!  The fabric is like a cotton twill but has quite a different texture on each side, one side sort of basket weave (I used this side as my main fabric) and the other side has a striped effect.  I decided not to add the additional stitching around the panels and pocket edges and in keeping with this handstitched the hem so no stitching is visible on the outside of the dress.



The armholes are very high, I don't know if this is due to the petite sizing but is something to look out for, it's just on the right side of comfortable for me.



 The back view is fairly plain and in dire need of a final pressing!

I'll get some photos of me wearing it in a separate post soon, I feel very Roland Mouret-ish wearing it!

24 comments:

coffeeaddict said...

I love your choice of fabric, super cute that you used the wrong (or was it right side) for the paneling.
I saw the pattern but I was nervous about the pocket pleats as well. But after seeing your fab dress, I think I'll be giving this pattern a second chance.

lin3arossa said...

Looks ggod! Something about it makes me think of Vogue 1122...

Marie-Christine said...

The armholes are very high because a petite pattern has that shortened. That's why Burda petite patterns are good :-). Nice result though, and I really like the subtle use of both sides..

Eugenia said...

This pattern is one of my favourite from Burda's recent issues and your version looks fabulous. I love how you have used the reverse of the fabric for the panels - it gives a very sophisticated look. You are right - it looks very Roland Mouret!

Sølvi said...

This looks absolutely stunning! I really live your fabric choice on this one. :-)

Shari said...

Your dress looks great! Love the style of this dress and the pockets on the front look great.

Amanda S. said...

I can't wait to see the pictures of you in it. What a pretty dress! And kudos to you for finding the perfect matching invisible zipper.

Pin Queen said...

What a lovely pattern, it looks great and I really look forward to seeing pictures of you wearing it soon!

Rosie said...

Lovely pattern and great fabric/color.

Rachel said...

I LOVE that!!!! I always look forward to your posts. It is very Roland Mouret-ish--I love his designs.

eunny jang said...

oh, fabulous! I loved the lines of this dress but couldn't decide what it actually looked like (thanks, black-on-black sample dress), so this is super helpful. It's gorgeous!

Lori said...

Your dress looks fantastic, this pattern has great lines.

Handmade said...

Yes it is stunning! I like a highish armhole - great fabric - fabulous!

Jane M said...

Wonderful use of your fabric to make this so subtly chic. I'm sure you will look wonderful wearing it.

Ann's Fashion Studio said...

LOve the lines of this dress...agree it is very Roland Mouret-ish :)

a little sewing said...

Your workmanship is beautiful as ever. This dress is so you!

Amber Elayne said...

I have been eyeballing this pattern since it came out but the petite thing scared me off... 5'7" hmmm and not tiny lol!

I'm so glad I got to see your version - so cute and I love your graninwork- so I can comfortably try myself and maybe make the armholes a bit lower too! Are you going to post a pic with you in it?

Gail said...

Very nice indeed. I'm looking forward to receiving this issue - due to arrive in Australia in November. I really should subscribe while our $ is so high!

meli88a said...

Very Rouland Mouretish indeed! I love this style, and your craftmanship shows.

MAD14kt said...

Well done!

lakaribane said...

Thank you for this review. I had second thoughts about this one but I'm putting it back on the To Sew List (esp since it's a Petite = no alterations needed!).

I'm thinking denim, with the inserts in the reverse, like you did. I have been dying to do this with a garment for ages and this looks so good on you. I hope I'm as lucky with my version.

Love the photo shoot too!

Myra said...

This is a truly beautiful dress and dress and you wear it soooo well!! I really, really like it a lot!

SEWN said...

I love this dress too. That fabric is sooo cool. Beautiful.

lakaribane said...

I hope you see this soon. I'm currently sewing this dress and decided to line it. Did you line yours? You don't mention it. I would like to know if you constructed your bodice as Burda shows ie shourlder seams, then facings, then CF seam. And if you have advice on lining this dress bodice, please email me! I'm a little lost. Thank you in advance.