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Thursday, January 24, 2013

BurdaStyle 08/2008 - 115 Jacket

I FINALLY finished my jacket.  I expect you need a reminder of the pattern, it's this one from BurdaStyle 08/2008, and what I love about it - all those details and buttons is also why it took so darn long to finish.




This pattern has only a partial lining which seems daft in a wool jacket so I drafted my own based on the partial lining pieces and the full pattern pieces.  That's really all I am going to say about it because I either did something very wrong or my silk lining moved during cutting because I had a heck of a time getting it in without causing the outer shell to pucker.  In the end I handsewed the hem of the lining to the jacket and made it work, but the result is not pretty!  I underlined the peplum piece so that bit at least is OK.  I also like the two coloured lining, although I fully admit that was because I didn't have enough navy to hand.



The lapels are cut as separate pieces from the jacket (rather than having a roll line) which makes it much easier to get a nice looking collar but it does create some bulk in the seam joining the jacket to the lapels.



I left out the front pockets because I knew I would never use them, but I still did real buttonholes everywhere, which my machine was not happy about in some places.  I even made 6 buttonholes in the front before noticing the instructions only require 3 - you just sew one column of the buttons onto the front of the jacket and fasten it inside with a single button.  Oh well.



All that said, I really like the finished jacket, it's a classic - especially in navy wool - with a twist in the details and the back peplum.










And now to get to all those other things I have been tracing and cutting....

59 comments:

Carmen Bouchard aka CarmencitaB said...

You should be very proud of yourself. It's great!

pdiddly said...

beautiful jacket, which I am sure you will get loads of wear from

Summer Flies said...

Oh very very nice, and how special is that little peplum!

theperfectnose said...

It is beautiful on you! Well done. Not sure what was causing the puckering but perhaps there is static between the lining and outer? I too traced this, freaked out about the lack of lining, traced together a 'fake' lining from the pattern pieces and gave up when summer got here it was too hot to touch wool anything XD One day.. It is such nice pattern-kind of a cross between dressage uniform and military.

coffeeaddict said...

Wow, gorgeous jacket and as always the fit and all the details are impeccable.
As for Burda patterns, I've had my frustrations with their quirks too, but this one is truly weird, a half lined jacket? very strange indeed and I would have done the same thing as you and lined it completely.

MONICA said...

Un básico que te ha quedado de maravilla y te sienta estupendamente.

Lori said...

Absolutely stunning jacket. I like the peplum in the back. Great job.

Marita said...

Allison,
you always make the nicest clothes and this is no exception:)

Karin said...

This is sharp, or as the Brits say "very smart!" It looks fantastic. I can only imagine all the work involved. Fancy not being designed with a lining!

Laury said...

You have some mad skills...love it.

Kathi G said...

Your jacket is beautiful. I made the pockets in my jacket and they are strange. When the jacket is buttoned the pockets overlap so when I put my hands in them my hands are on top of each other. I look very bulky with my hands in my pockets. I still love this jacket.

Victoria said...

Gorgeous jacket Lady! That design is so feminine and I love the gathers in the back peplum! Great job!!!

Rachel said...

I love that. It looks great on you.

Jenny said...

Beautiful jacket! Love the peplum and the tab detail in the back. Looks great

Kelli Ward said...

wow, what an accomplishment. its amazing!

NewRibena said...

Your jacket is adorable and well worth the time and effort.

Gail said...

Wear this with a lot of pride. It's one of a kind and fantastic.

Jenny said...

Oooh this is beautiful! I'm not usually big on peplums, but I really do like this one. I'm also impressed how crisp your lapels look - that seems to always be my trouble spot.

sandysewin said...

What a great jacket! It suits you perfectly; I love the red top underneath, too. It's a classic you'll get many years of wear from, I'm sure. Nice work!

emadethis said...

It's beautiful--I've always loved all the details of this pattern...it might move up the queue for the fall now having seeing yours. I hope you wear it to pieces.

couturearts said...

Wow! Gorgeous!

Beth (SunnyGal Studio) said...

wow I love this, would wear it in a heartbeat. There is something about the lapel and collar on this jacket that is very pretty, a slightly rounded V perhaps? Fantastic look and so wearable.

SEWN said...

What a gorgeous jacket. I love it. You picked the perfect buttons for it too.

Caroline said...

That is stunning, it looks incredibly expensive. I'm super impressed!

Susan said...

Fabulous jacket and great button choice to boot! LOL. The back detail is great, also.

Jean said...

Just beautiful! The neckline is so elegant. The back peplum is super cute as well. I've been thinking about making a navy jacket -- I'm inspired!

soisewedthis said...

Wow! That looks amazing!

velosewer said...

Stunning jacket. Your work is amazing. The detailing you've done was worth it.

Shelley Hesson said...

So sharp!!! The whole thing is ultra classy. Lovin' the peplum.

Clio said...

Classic but very stylish too! I bet you'll get loads of wear out of it. How odd that it would be drafted with a partial lining!

Miss Jackson said...

Gorgeous! I've had this pattern traced for years but haven't got around to making it. Definitely this winter :-)

Aminat said...

Your jacket is absolutely stunning. Great job

toy said...

Well worth the wait!
I think it looks stunning and I can see all the hard work you put into it. Navy is your color!

Lupe Santiago said...

It's gorgeous, you've been very good color and very nice fabric

Nancy K said...

Glad to see that you finished this because you have one fabulous jacket there. It looks wonderful on you. I love the the triple dart detail on the sleeve. In a class with Kenneth King he showed how to make a single elbow dart into three to make it a more interesting detail, which it is here. You'll wear this for years.

sewstashsew said...

What a gorgeous jacket, I love the design!

Amanda S. said...

Beautiful jacket! It's traditional and unique at the same time. I made this pattern several years ago and remember thinking how dumb Burda was to not include a lining in a wool jacket.

Joyce in NC said...

This is a wonderful jacket that I'm sure you will wear for years. Great job!

Faye Lewis said...

Allison it is a beautiful jacket and what could be better than Navy blue!

Audrey said...

Lovely classic jacket. Jackets always take me more effort and time than I anticipate. But I wear them all the time, as I expect you will do with this one.

T. Sedai said...

Love this! The details are so fun, yet the color keeps it really classy. I love all of the buttons, and the fit looks super. I hope you get a lot of use from it - it looks like it could go with everything.

Sue said...

That is one sweet jacket - worth all the work!

the craftytraveller said...

Very stylish!

Catherine Daze said...

I really like the shape of the collar on that. Well done!

Tiburon pececillo said...

lovely!! it´s so wonderful, i like it!!! ;)
http://pescadilloderio.blogspot.com.es/

Coco said...

The back peplum is stunning! great jacket.

The Slapdash Sewist said...

This is a gorgeous jacket! Those buttons are just perfect. I dig the two-tone lining. And that back peplum!

Vicki said...

You can never go wrong with a navy jacket like that. The back peplum softens it up nicely.

Kelley Dibble said...

Wow. You'll get a stunning amount of mileage from this looker.

So will the jacket. *wink* Look marvelous in it. Well done!

Kelley~

meli88a said...

You will look great coming and going in this jacket. That peplum is a nice surprise for a tailored jacket.

erinkg said...

This looks fantastic! I'm finishing up this same jacket but I think I screwed it up beyond repair because I took the shoulders in and now they are too narrow. :( However, seeing yours, I'm not motivated to try and finish it regardless. :)

a little sewing said...

What an interesting pattern - challenging, for sure! It looks great and it is a testament to your skill that you solved problems and ended up with a very cute jacket.

themateriallady said...

Classic with a twist. Lovely!

Victoria Callas said...

I love it! It's so classic with just the right amount of "edge" to it, and it looks even better on you! Great job

Gail said...

2008 was a great year for Burda. I've been revisiting some of the patterns. Love this classic look.

kbenco said...

The peplum is so cool. Your whole jacket looks awesome, but the peplum adds the twist to the classic. What a project!

Septorinoplasti drew said...

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Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

How did I miss this awesome jacket!?! I like that you made six buttonholes - it adds to the specialness of the jacket. What a fantastic job you did on this.

Goodbye Valentino said...

Dynamite! I love the combination of tailoring with feminine details - great sewing as always!