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Wednesday, June 11, 2014

Burda Style 06/2014 - 108 Dress

It's still June and here is a dress from the June issue and I also have a pair of shorts just waiting to be hemmed, probably a first and it says a lot about how I think Burda is on a bit of a roll lately with the good patterns.


Sometimes I just flick through the magazine and look at the photos and line drawings, sometimes I take my time and actually read it which can be very entertaining.  This dress is described as follows;

"Putting this figure hugging dress together is just like ikebana, the Japanese art of flower arranging."

Now maybe it's just because I left off all the plisse fabric bits, but if you are hoping to become an expert at ikebana you are going to be disappointed. (which is a shame because I just google imaged it and it is very lovely!).

If however you want a great dress you will not be disappointed!



I love how this turned out, and I think it can work as a semi casual dress, like mine here in cotton or as a cocktail dress in dupion or brocade.  I think too that the bodice would look great with a full gathered or circle skirt, again as a party dress or a summery dress depending on the fabric.





The changes I made here were to raise the neckline and extend the wrapover (Burda called it low cut which usually means navel baring on me) and as mentioned above I left off the plisse insert and belt.  This is easy to do, the left front skirt piece has the centre front marked, I just used this as the fold line.  I also shortened my version to just on the knee.

The fabric is the large scale ikat print that I bought on this trip and said was going to be a pencil skirt.  Luckily I had bought 2 yards so had enough to change my mind and make this dress.  I didn't attempt to pattern match other than to centre the motifs and make sure I didn't have big pink blobs somewhere inappropriate and I think it is OK.



The original has a self lined bodice, I used a lightweight cotton since my fabric was just very slightly see through.  I also lined the skirt for the same reason.  The lining gave me a bit of trouble with the wrapover fronts since they are separately lined and I hacked a way to get the inside looking halfway decent.  Here is what I did for the record, I am certain there is a better way (centre back zip?, draft a separate 1 piece front lining? If anyone knows the answer please shout out in the comments.....)

  • kept lining and bodice separate at zip side seam
  • stitched main fabric of skirt to bodice for only about an inch either side of the zip side seam
  • insert zip, keeping lining free
  • finish rest of main fabric skirt/bodice seam
  • insert skirt lining to seam allowances of skirt/bodice seam just sewn
  • handstitch remaining unsewn bodice lining to skirt lining and lining edges to zip

needed a bit more lining fabric here!
front lining
hand hemmed skirt
Other than the lining issue it was easy to put together, I cut a 38 at the shoulders and waist, blending out to a 40 at the bust and hips which along with the front extension shown above gave me a decent fitting bodice which I am sure I will use again.  I did still slipstitch it together at the crossover just in case.  After the wadder I just posted I am now a happy camper, really recommend trying this pattern if it's your style.




27 comments:

Nancy D said...

Really pretty! If June's BurdaStyle ever appears for me I'll be tracing this one out and referring to this post. Thanks!

Beth (SunnyGal Studio) said...

I just saw that dress pattern in an email from Burda today and thought it had good lines so I am very happy to see it sewn up. I love the fabric and the fact that you made it a more casual summer weight dress. love it on you. I would be sorely tempted but I am trying to have a dress moratoriam - you know how difficult that is when there are so many pretty ones.
As for the lining on a wrap - I generally just improvise, and use a lot of hand sewing. yours turned out very well.

Sarah Liz said...

This is a lovely dress - it looks fantastic in the print you have chosen. You are right, sometimes BurdaStyle magazine has good runs, often more mediocre runs over the last couple of years. Lets hope the roll continues :)

Isabella M. said...

You look fantastic, your dress captivated me. I admire abilities! I also sew, but not so beautiful :)

T. Sedai said...

Pretty! I really liked this pattern in the magazine... now I really am going to have to find the perfect fabric to try it.

Love the way you used the print on your dress!

Threadie said...

This dress is really great on you !

kbenco said...

This dress is making me very impatient for my magazine, your version is so pretty and a great use of the fabric.

Vicki said...

Very nice! Some really cute details.

Gail said...

I love how you used the fabric. It looks stunning in print.

Nancy K said...

Really pretty dress. It's perfect on you and I agree with Gail, it's stunning in a print. I wonder if my dd would like this as I promised her a dress.

beurreblanc said...

Great dress and fabulous pattern. Now I really want my June burda to arrive!
-sewingelle

Nakisha said...

This turned out very nicely! Yes, the fabric is yummy!

Clio said...

I just love the bodice and sleeve/strap treatment on this! Beautiful!

Merche Martinez said...

What a lovely dress! I like your version much better than Burda´s, and you chose the right fabric! So pretty!

Kristy Chan said...

Gorgeous - I was wondering how this would look without the draping scarf thing at the front and I think it looks far better! Good tip on raising the neckline too, you know if Burda admits that it's low cut then it's probably scandalous...

Kristy Chan said...

Gorgeous - I was wondering how this would look without the draping scarf thing at the front and I think it looks far better! Good tip on raising the neckline too, you know if Burda admits that it's low cut then it's probably scandalous...

Sharon said...

Fantastic dress and love the way you have used the print. I need to have another look at my Burda magazine.

themateriallady said...

Great dress - and I love the Ikat print.

overflowingstash said...

I passed over this issue, but your dress is a real gem! Well done :-)

Audrey said...

I earmarked this pattern as one that would be a winner in both fit and style. Yours looks great and confirms that. What a fun print!

Jean said...

Great dress -- I just love the print! I can see that this could be a versatile pattern. Thank you for reviewing it!

Heidi said...

I loved the dress pattern when I saw it, and your version is sooooo beautifu!

SEWN said...

Gorgeous dress! The fabric is TDF too!

SEWN said...

Gorgeous dress! The fabric is TDF too!

SEWN said...

Gorgeous dress! The fabric is TDF too!

Tia Dia said...

Just gorgeous! I would have completely overlooked this pattern, but your not-so-formal version is absolutely perfect. I'm going to have a second look at this.

Nancy K said...

My dd did love this dress. I sent her a link to your blog and I am making a muslin now. I will raise the cf since she wants this for a work dress. The question I have is without the pleated panel, how's the walking ease? If I change it to a cb seam I'll be able to add a slit at the hem. Do you think it's necessary?