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Sunday, 19 July 2015

Style Arc Jessica Dress

I made a printed version of this pattern recently in a slinkier knit and promised to remake it in a solid.  Often these promises come to nothing, but this time I did keep it and have made this twist dress in a plain purple ITY knit so you can see the lines much better.




There are a few changes and observations from my first version;

I took the bodice up at the shoulders instead of securing the low neckline, obviously this raises the waistline up, but it seems to work for me.  I made a 10 again, and took it in a bit at the waist.  The bodice is quite roomy, if you usually do an FBA you may not need to with this pattern and vice versa you might need to downsize.



I shortened the hem to knee length.  On both my versions and looking at examples online, the asymmetric pleats in the skirt make the hem not hang straight so I trimmed it while on my dressform to straighten it out before hemming.  No one else seems to have mentioned it so maybe I'm being fussy.



This is two projects in a row where I think the drawing does not match the pattern, and now I'm starting to doubt myself!  In this case the way the front knot is illustrated is different to the instructions, I ended up following the instructions, maybe I did it wrong, I don't think it really matters.

The knot is quite bulky, although this does help keep it all in place.  I'm wondering if it's possible to shape the bodice extensions so that they are narrower where they wrap around each other?

Instructions
Line drawing




This colour does make it quite a dressy dress, albeit a comfy jersey one, but I think I can dress it down with a casual jacket when it gets cooler.

Unrelated to how I feel about this dress, I've got to say my sewing mojo is just not there at the moment.  I don't know if it's because it's the middle of a hot summer, my current lack of enthusiasm for new pattern releases and general apathy towards fashion or what, but I hope it passes soon!

21 comments:

velosewer said...

It's the middle of Summer so enjoy it while you can. I love your dress Allison.

The Material Lady said...

Regardless of whether it matches the picture (and I have had that experience too so don't doubt yourself) that dress looks great.
Sewing mojos seem to come and go. Don't worry, it will be back.

Merche Martinez said...

Love your dress, the twist on the waistm the colour and the drape look perfect to me!

Anne-Rose said...

This looks gorgeous in a solid colour! I have made two in a print, I did eliminate the pleats from the front skirt (just used the back skirt), as I found my muslin with pleats a bit bulky. I should really make a solid version as well!

Coco said...

Your dress is so much prettier than the line drawings...and I like it in a solid. The knot thing is funny...I wonder if it would ever fold the way it's shown in the line art!

overflowingstash said...

Thanks for doing one in plain fabric. I always wonder if drapes + print is too much & cancel each other out. I love this on you. Looks better than on the dress form.

Does look like the instruction & drawing are at odd. I'd it possible to reverse the sides in the instruction to get the illustrated result? Or do prev/next steps prevent that? If yes then it comes down to which you prefer given that the front skirt is asymmetrical.

I'm also temper by anything with drapes. But the reality doesn't always mathe the vision innit! Fabric choices make such difference - not just drape/hand, but also weight! I really should study RTW versions more...if only I don't hate shopping malls so much! :-)

Can the drape be rearranged somehow? On the top (left?) side bodice, it looks like the bit closer to the waist is on top. Can the drape be teased so that the bit closer to the boob or in between be on top? Then it may look more the illustration.

overflowingstash said...
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overflowingstash said...
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Vicki said...

The dress looks lovely even if it is different from the drawings. Lovely colour and the drapes are flattering.

Couturemum said...

Hi Allison, your dress looks lovely. The Jessica dress is one of my favourite dresses to make (I am fairly busy and I love not having to do an fba). I emailed Stylearc about the asymmetrical hem and they informed me the line drawing is incorrect, the hem is supposed to twist slightly from the pleats and be asymmetrical, it's a design feature. Just make sure you line up the hem and notches first and then ease the rest of the side seam. Hope this help

SewCraftyChemist said...

Gorgeous! I love that twist.

patsijean said...

Perhaps you can find some answers to your question from Studio Faro in Marrickville, NSW. These folks specialize in multi-layered and twisty patterns and drafting of said patterns. I bet they can answer your question regarding the differences in the pattern as drafted and the line drawing. I can certainly see the difference. http://www.studiofaro.com/well-suited

Cherie said...

This dress is lovely on you! It looks so soft yet kinda dressy! I really like the deep color on you!

Sew, Jean Margaret said...

Love the style and shape of this dress. I am a big Style Arc fan but I haven't tried this pattern yet. Love your version...very inspiring.

Gail said...

Alison this dress is fantastic. Love the simple twist and the colour is perfect for you.

Jean said...

This really is a flattering dress! I'm sure you'll get inspired about sewing again -- sometimes a break is what is needed.

helenko said...

OMG! I want your dress for me EXACTLY. Simply adore it. Thank you so much for posting!

Tia Dia said...

Such a great dress! I agree with you that the solid bumps it up a notch into the "dressy" category. As for the knot drawing vs. instructions issue, I've run into the same problem with patterns. Sometimes it bugs me, but other times only a sewist familiar with the pattern would notice!

Summer F-T said...

Gorgeous dress!

Sharon said...

Lovely dress Allison, the colour looks fantastic on you and the style works very well.

Frenie Agbayani said...

I am glad to see these sewing patterns, as I was just looking at it the other day...might have to put them on my to-do list.