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Thursday, 31 March 2016

BurdaStyle Magazine 03/2016 - 121 Dress

I liked a lot of things in this issue, but this dress particularly jumped out at me as being pretty much my idea of the perfect sheath dress - cap sleeves, a bit of asymmetry and some interest with the front pleats.

03/2016 - 121 Dress Pattern









I really like the sleeveless version 120 with the ruffle too - another fabric, another day.

The pattern is designed for stretch fabrics only, I used a double knit which is much heavier than their bridal section stretch crepes, but still works.  In fact it made it a lot easier because I didn't need to bother with lining or a zip.  I also didn't finish the inside edges, they will not fray and serving them just added extra bulk that wasn't needed.

The original dress is fully lined, with an additional layer of interlining on the front.  I think if you made this a stretch crepe or something similarly lightweight this would probably be necessary to keep the front pleats in place and stop them drooping.  In a double knit, provided the dress is fitted enough, those pleats should (hopefully!) stay where they are meant to.



With my shortcuts this is a pretty straightforward dress to sew.  Burda's instructions seem much more detailed than usual and most of them appear to be related to the lining so that you get a clean finish at the edges.  I had the dress looking 90% finished within a couple of evenings and then ground to a halt and procrastinated for ages on how to finish my edges and hems because I wanted that same clean look, but successfully sewing double knit by hand so that it is completely invisible and stretchy proved too much for my skills and patience levels!

After a bit of trial and error I used a twin needle on the hem which I mitred at the slit edges, topstitched around the back slit (which is open in my case rather than a vent), simply turned and machined the part of the underarm seam not attached to the sleeve and applied a facing strip to the neckline which I under stitched and topstitched in place.   Now I have got over my need for a clean finish I am completely happy with the choices I made, definitely more RTW than couture, but it's very secure and absolutely nobody is going to notice, even me in a short while.



I really like the finished dress, it looks red in these photos, but the fabric is actually a burnt orange / cinnamon colour purchased last year at Pitt St Trading in Sydney.  I'm glad I waited to use it.




27 comments:

Sewingelle said...

I love this dress. I really liked this issue too, and this design in particular.

Camelia db said...

Lovely! Very very nice dress, fits you perfect!

Summer Flies said...

Gorgeous! That colour is so you. I love the design.

Tany said...

Just beautiful! I'm adding this one to my to-sew list!

Nancy K said...

This is really gorgeous on you!

sewingkm said...

Beautiful and love the color on you.

Beth (SunnyGal Studio) said...

wow that looks fantastic, love the shape and color on you.

Aline said...

Your dress is so much more beautiful than Burda's version, and you look FABULOUS wearing it!

TheTellTaleTasha said...

You look amazing! The color and fit look great!

Griseta said...

I like your dress.
I have just read that:
http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/36215/video-how-to-sew-a-figure-eight-stitch
and that :
https://voguepatterns.mccall.com/current-issue
Take a look in the magazine. It contains the article: "DESIGNER HEM".
You may need these instructions next time you sew a stretch dress.
Greetings from Greece.

handmadebychris said...

What a great dress! And you are right, those pleats stay in place just fine without the lining (I made the same dress also from a double knit and have had no problems with pleat drooping. Just need to get round to blogging it)

Clio said...

What a great fit, style, color... everything!

Vicki said...

Beautiful!

The Material Lady said...

Lovely dress in a fantastic colour. I'm sure it's going to be worn lots because you look great.

Lisa R said...

Excellent job and I love that dress!

Joan Weakland said...

Great job sewing and on your various decisions for this dress! It looks beautiful on you, as well!

Carolyn (Diary of a Sewing Fanatic) said...

I loved this dress on the dress form and I LOVE it on you! What an awesome fabric choice for this project!

Tia Dia said...

This is lovely! I love a pretty red dress. You are on a roll with these last couple of Burda patterns. I'm inspired!

Melissa Fehr Trade said...

omg!! You are, yet again, my total style twin! Despite hardly appearing in the magazine at all, this dress jumped out to me as being SO ME too! :) So impressed that you've made it already, and I'm now itching to make it for myself even more (though I was thinking black stretch satin, now I want a red one!)

Sharon said...

Va voom love this dress and so glad you have made it up, you look fantastic.

Isa García-Onlylola said...

lovely!

Sue said...

Stunning!

badmomgoodmom said...

Gorgeous!

Gail said...

Every girl needs a little red dress! Who needs black when you look so fabulous in red.

Doctor T Designs said...

This is stunning! I'm so behind on blog reading, but I'm glad I decided to get caught up because otherwise I would have missed this. It was on my radar before but your version puts the Burda versions to shame.

Eri Sunny said...

Wonderful dress! Great work!

I`m following ur blog with a great pleasure!

Please join me - http://sunnyeri.blogspot.com

princess.precious said...

My kind of dress! It looks great on you.