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Monday, 24 October 2016

BurdaStyle 10/2016 - 102 Knit Dress

UPDATE !! - If anyone else is struggling with the instructions on this pattern, I'm happy to report that blogger Pauline at Sew You Think You Can Knock Off has managed to make two gorgeous versions of this dress and has posted photos of the construction, visit http://sewuthinkucan.blogspot.hk/2016/11/burdastyle-102016-102-knotted-dress-i.html
Thank you Pauline!
La Karibane also posted a helpful comment in this post, interestingly both bloggers use French instructions, maybe they are better?!

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Last weekend I popped to the Hong Kong garment district area of Sham Shui Po solely to buy some white serger thread.  Needless to say a few pieces of fabric came home with me too, including this one which is very me - print, purple and jersey!


So as soon as I had finished the white project (coming up next) I moved straight onto this fabric and chose this jersey dress from the October issue of Burda (also very me).


10/2016 - 102


I made a couple of adjustments upfront, the neckline looked very wide so I narrowed it a bit and I also left off the sleeves on this version as it still isn't cool enough for long sleeves yet and I can always wear a light jacket over this dress when we do start getting some transitional weather.  I also switched the neck binding for a simple faced finish.

I started making this on Saturday so that I could wear it to a lunch with friends on the next day, quite a tight deadline, but it's a jersey dress - how hard could it be?

Things started well, the top is pretty straightforward and goes together quickly.  However when I got to attaching the skirt to the bodice I got completely confused.  I am convinced there is a step missing as there is nothing describing how or when to attach the front of the bodice to the skirt and all the references to facings, casings and attachment lines do not help.  I ended up with a raw edge on the bodice and a casing that I could not thread the elastic all the way through.  Time was getting on by now so out came the seam ripper and a radical solution.......





Yes, I had to admit defeat and decided to just make a separate top (which is pattern 101 in this issue) and skirt.  The top just tucks into the elasticated waist skirt, except at the knot area and then you just blouse the top a bit so that it looks exactly like the dress is supposed to and the 3cm wide elastic in the skirt holds everything in place.  No one need ever know!

Although it does pain me somewhat to be beaten by Burda's instructions, having separates is quite practical and each piece will definitely also be worn on its own.  I do want to try the long sleeved version later in the season - I'm thinking you need to first attach the skirt to the bodice with a normal seam allowance, except in the knot area and then fold and stitch the skirt somehow to create a casing.  If anyone manages to make sense of the instructions please do let me know what I missed!

I made it to the lunch in my fake dress and despite the frustrations of not being able to understand something that surely should be easy, I really like my new dress/ top/ skirt.  It / they will get a lot of wear and I am even planning on making this again although whether as one or two pieces I don't yet know!



It's pretty impossible to see the knot detail with this print so below are a few more detail photos.









19 comments:

Camelia db said...

It looks gorgeous! The fabric is really nice, beautiful colors! You got me intrigued about the instructions , I will take a look to see what I will understand, I also hate when I don`t understand sewing instructions and I get that a lot with Patrones Magazine and of course Burda .

Mariela Alethia said...

It's a beautiful ensemble.

cidell said...

Nice and necessary save! What do we call a two piece dress? Is that it? A two-piece dress?

Amanda S. said...

I like these a lot! The colors are lovely and the knot detail is fun.

Irene said...

This turned out beautifully! And what a great save.

KS_Sews said...

I got a good laugh out of "fake skirt". I remember noticing the top and then seeing it as a dress thinking, now how is THAT going to work? Crazy Burda. We love them anyhow.

I LOVE IT as separates! Especially in this great print. They will both be very versatile pieces and I'm willing to bet this was one of those blessings in disguise kinda things!

Beth (SunnyGal Studio) said...

I think that is so much better! I noticed that pattern as well and was tempted, now I will certainly try it as I think separates are an improvement. Very cool fabric and yes, so you!

Faye Lewis said...

Lovely Allison.

Cennetta said...

Allison, This is a great two piece dress. I see why you couldn't pass up this beautiful fabric. Style and fabric a perfect match.

katherine h said...

I like your solution! It is probably more versatile this way. Purple is great on you.

Tracie said...

I love the print and the pattern and you're right - it's very you! I know how frustrating it is when a pattern makes no sense tho - grrrr

Valerie said...

Great solution to a Burda puzzle! It makes so much more sense to have this as separates. I like the material too. I was actually looking for something in these colours in Sydney's Cabramatta on the weekend. I have a feeling you have more material on offer in shanghai ;)

Sewingelle said...

I can totally see why you went in for serger thread and came out with this fabric. Gorgeous. I also think separates is a brilliant idea.

Sharon said...

Much prefer the separates and the fact that they can combine for a dress is perfect.

Gail said...

Funny I bought some purplish knit with the idea of a dress, but I'm moving towards separates that will look like a dress. So much more versatile. Love your rendering of this pattern. It works better in a print than that insipid jersey.

Vicki said...

What a great simple (in theory) pattern. Shame about the instructions. Great fabric find too.

La Karibane said...

I love your fabric! Looks great on you and you had a great "Make it Work!" moment. I took a look a the instructions in FR. Didn't get it. But, upon reflection, noticed that the no 6 sewing markers are both "inside" the back pattern pieces. This leads me to believe the casing is made by overlapping the top and skirt portions, seam allowances folded in, and basically topstitching them together all around EXCEPT at the knot area. Plus the Back Skirt is shorter than the Back Bodice and so you have to stretch the former to meet the latter. So, not difficult but not easy either. Either way, you did it!

Doctor T Designs said...

Super cute! Love your solution - seems like a win all the way around.

Mariah McPherson said...

Oh my goodness- I am muddling my way through this pattern right now. I've been spoiled by using mostly patterns with great instructions, and I am completely confounded by these!! Pictures! I need pictures!! I'm glad to have found your post and to know that it's not just me at least :) Still not sure if I'll be able to figure out how to attach the top and bottom...I may have to go the separates route as well!