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Monday, January 30, 2012

Jacket - Burda Style Magazine 01/2007 - 119

I chose this fairly classic style jacket from the 01/2007 issue of Burda magazine - I'm not sure why I had to go back quite so far to find the details I wanted, but it made tracing out the pattern much easier than the newer issues.  It is actually a pattern for tall women, but I made it with no alterations so if you are tall through the torso then beware!  I am 5'6 which I think is average or at least not tall.



Since tailored jackets are rather involved I'm splitting this post into two parts - here is my usual summary and photos.  For those who are interested in the inner workings of the jacket I will do a separate post showing photos from the inside before the lining went in.

My fabric is either a loosely woven metallic tweed or a boucle, I'm not sure where you draw the line between the two.  Anyway it looks like this:


And my lining looks like this:


Not having made a tailored jacket for some time I was a bit rusty and referred to the Singer Tailoring book I won in Pin Queen's giveaway last year and also to some notes I had from a speed tailoring course I did years ago in London with the English Couture Company (also available as a DVD).  

So I didn't even look at Burda's instructions for this jacket, but other than use speed tailoring techniques, the only changes I made to the pattern were:
  • Changed the pockets to double welt pockets with a flap just because the instructions for these were better in the book and I liked the look of the visible welt.  
  • Swapped the under and upper collar over so that there is no centre back seam on the top collar - I don't understand why but despite following the grainlines it just looked really strange and instead of seeing a sort of chevron pattern I could distinctly see one side of the collar with horizontal lines and one with vertical, I don't know if my fabric slipped while cutting or if it was just my eyes / imagination, but the easy option was to swap them over.  (You can sort of see the stripes that show in certain lighting in the fabric in the pocket photo above).

Overall I'm happy with how this came out, there are definitely things that could be done better and though I'm not going to lose any sleep over them, I'll cover those in my inner workings post coming up next.

I've styled the jacket very simply here so you can see it on me, but I think this can work in lots of different ways, either toned down as a grey jacket or spruced up a bit to bring out it's silver side.  I'm looking forward to experimenting while it's still cool enough to wear it.







46 comments:

Anonymous said...

That is one gorgeous jacket and looks great on you. Laura UK

katerinka said...

Lovely jacket! and very good on you!
BW katerinka

Shannon said...

What a gorgeous, classy jacket!

Lori said...

Gorgeous jacket, I always have liked the shawl collar on a jacket and yours is beautiful.

Pinqueen said...

It's lovely Alison, very elegant and I'm glad the book came in handy! I have the old English Couture Video and recenlty bought it again on DVD - it's a good resource!

Goodbye Valentino said...

Your jacket is so good looking! I love your lining too. Thanks for sharing the details with lots of great pics - very inspirational.

Jenny said...

Wow, what a beautiful jacket! Classic but a litle edgy with those lapels and fun pockets.

Karin said...

Fabulous! The detailing is great, but the fit is the best bit. It looks wonderful on you.
Thanks for sharing your tailoring resources.

Rachel said...

That is gorgeous and very well done!!! I love the fabric.

Jacquie said...

It's a awesome jacket with such great details - love the shape of the collar and pockets. It looks very high end and professionally tailored. Beautiful!

Lisette M said...

Gorgeous! I love the lapel and the pockets turned out beautiful as well.

Nancy K said...

Beautiful jacket. I love the fabric and it looks to be very versatile piece in your wardrobe. Well done.

Irene said...

Wonderful, wonderful jacket!

sandysewin said...

Your jacket looks fabulous, a real wardrobe staple. I love the lining!

Beth (SunnyGal Studio) said...

I agree with everyone else, great wardrobe staple, nice fit and I love a bit of sparkle to make the fabric more interesting. I am making a grey wool plaid jacket now as well and the Singer tailoring book is invaluable, such great photos in that book. Highly recommend!

Victoria Callas said...

I adore your style, everything you make looks just amazing and so stylish. This jacket is not an exception- superb creation!

a little sewing said...

wow, your jacket looks amazing on the dress form, but even better on you!
Beautiful work on a classic style you will wear forever.

Clio said...

Beautiful fit! What a great jacket!

Erica B. said...

That jacket is beautifully tailored!

Nicole A said...

What a beautiful color! I just made a tweed jacket, but I need to learn the specific tailoring techniques to make the seams lay nicely and not be so lumpy. I'm looking forward to your post on the "inner workings"!

Evie said...

Quite spectacular tailoring. Beautiful.
Oh, and my little girl thinks you have a beautiful house! I agree!

Amanda S. said...

I LOVE it, Allison! The fit, the pockets, the collar, that lining. Everything! You are making me want to make a fitted jacket!

Macchiato said...

Lovely jacket.

Mrs L said...

great jacket!

Stephanie said...

i love love love this jacket. it fits you beautifully and i love the stylelines. thanks for sharing.

velosewer said...

Love this style, the fabric and your work.

T. Sedai said...

This looks amazing! I love the classic style, and the pockets look fabulous. I am sure you will get a lot of wear out of your new jacket.

Helene said...

Now that is a stunning jacket! I love the fabric you've used, adore the lining, and it looks really great on you!

Lena Merrin said...

You certainly know your jackets

Kristine said...

Wow! Just gorgeous! Nice job!!!

Sew-4-Fun said...

Beautiful jackt!

Summerset said...

Beautiful and elegant!

A Sewn Wardrobe said...

Absolutely stunning jacket. It looks like a million bucks. THIS is why we sew, right?

Sue said...

Great jacket - I am sure it has been said before!

Catherine Daze said...

That's a lovely classic look. What great fabric too!

Lisa said...

This is a stunning jacket Allison. Such a perfect shape I love that type of collar.

Vicki said...

The jacket is awesome! Very classic but the fabric is very modern. You have done a great job, it looks very professional.

senaSews said...

Gorgeous. It is classy and sophisticated with the right amount of sparkle. And it looks soo well made. Great work!

SewBarbie said...

This jacket is beautiful in every way.

Gail said...

I am so impressed by your jacket. The tailoring is exquisite - especially the line of the shoulders.

Carolyn (cmarie12) said...

Allison - this is stunning! And thanks for the detailed post on how you assembled the jacket. I haven't made one of these in years either so it was good to read about your process. Enjoy wearing it because it is beautiful.

Cennetta said...

Absolutely gorgeous.

melissanearandfar said...

Great jacket!

RedHeadShannon said...

Beautifully constructed. Georgous

Victoria said...

Absolutely stunning! All of your craftsmanship shows and produced a wonderful product:)

theperfectnose said...

This is beautiful! What an awesome accomplishment! Good on ya!

http://theperfectnose.wordpress.com