Cue unexciting hanger shot....
Well having gushed about how fantastic the muslin for these pants was I can tell you that making the real ones was not plain sailing! For the muslin I obviously did not do the fly front and when it came to making them, this part completely threw me. I spent quite a bit of time pinning, sewing, unpicking before I finally got it and I don't know if in the process I stretched out the fronts a bit, but it required some alteration to get the front to fit better.
While I am happy with the back and side views, I'm still unsure about the front and think I do prefer a bootleg rather than a straight cut on me. I may be overanalysing things though so I think it's best to take a break from these and try them on again (and publish the results!) when the tops are done. I think in my head I am trying to get an unattainable fit (and body!) like this;
whereas reality is more like this - (real life = wrinkles, right?)
(images from Nordstrom)
I am finding myself analysing the crotch on all pants photos so need to stop now before I start doing this in real life and get into all sorts of trouble! In any case more work is needed before I can declare I have a pants TNT pattern.
I usually use Sandra Betzina's method when making fly front pants but I didn't know how to modify it for faced pants so I forged ahead with the Hot Patterns instructions. If you make these you need to know there are 2 errors:
At least in my version of this pattern, the waistband facing is marked incorrectly. The shorter front facing is actually the right front facing, the left front facing is the longer one. This is obvious once you have interfaced the wrong side of these pieces (assuming of course that the printed side up of the pattern is the right side).
There is also a typo in the first line of the fly front instructions so get a pen and correct that before you go any further. The second sentence of step 5 should read "Join the short front edge of the RIGHT front facing..", not the left. Of course you could swap everything around and have the fly overlapping in the opposite direction but that makes all the rest of the instructions truly mindblowing so I preferred to make these two amendments, then you can follow the instructions and they make sense.
Finally, a finished faced fly!
Or if you prefer Kay has helpfully provided a step by step photo guide to this type of fly front here http://www.flickr.com/photos/54636325@N00/sets/72157605144357793/with/2506715312/
There were some great ideas for the tops in the comments from my last post so thank you for those, they have got me thinking so we will see soon what I end up with...
Or if you prefer Kay has helpfully provided a step by step photo guide to this type of fly front here http://www.flickr.com/photos/54636325@N00/sets/72157605144357793/with/2506715312/
There were some great ideas for the tops in the comments from my last post so thank you for those, they have got me thinking so we will see soon what I end up with...
Trouble in paradise! At least you've finished them, and learned a new sewing skill for 2011. I know, I know, trousers on 6' models don't translate to reality. I have a similar wake-up between envisioning a sewing outcome, and the real vision of it. From the hanger shot it's hard to tell how they do look on you, but even if by some chance they are iffy, be inspired by Burda. Be seen sitting with legs crossed, or walking quickly--no one will know how they really fit and fall. Camouflage!
ReplyDeletelol, what Katharine said! But truly I don't know why we stress. 99% of the time we are in motion and less than perfect fit is not noticeable. I am loving the grey mini wardrobe. My current favourite neutral.
ReplyDeleteWe are always our own worst critic, I agree with what the others say. Your front fly looks fantastic and I am sure the pants on you will too.
ReplyDeleteYour pants look great and your faced fly so professional! I'm certain your pants look perfect on you but I know exactly what you mean. I tend to stress about everything too. In the grand scheme of thing your pants will always fit better because they were tailored fitted for you and you made them (smile)!
ReplyDeleteThe fly looks great. I always cheat with this and turn it into a mock-fly front. (less bulky - easier to do) As for fit - I do think that we (sewers) tend to worry far too much about fit and drive ourselves crazy. Really not worth it. Just have a look at the pants walking around on the street, and you will soon see that yours are of a far superior fit.
ReplyDeleteYour fly front looks great! I do appreciate that it took some work to get there. I am not very sure or proficient with fly fronts myself. Different patterns seem to have different approaches too. So even after I make it through one, the next one seems to come with different pieces! I hope you have a chance to take a picture of yourself wearing the pants. It's tough to see what sort of style they are on the hanger. I am sure the fit is better than you think. It seems like we are tougher critics on the stuff we make for ourselves than the stuff we buy.
ReplyDeleteFabulous job forging ahead with these pants! The fly front does look impeccable.
ReplyDeleteI have heard some mixed reviews on Hot Patterns for errors and difficulty. I'm glad they are fixable as they have a great look to them.
The fly front looks so perfect and professional. I'm sure the fit will be wonderful as you put so much care and attention into the things you make. I'm still looking for that perfect trouser pattern/fabric mix that looks good and unwrinkly after being sat on and walked around in for hours but alas, I think it is an unattainable dream.
ReplyDeleteTake into account that they pin the backs of those models to make sure that there isn't a wrinkle in sight.
ReplyDeleteThat said, they look good on you and the instructions for the fly front are for shit. Really bad. Take a look at Sigrid's tutorials for Kay Y's tutorial on this type of fly front. Much much better and it won't leave you feeling like an idiot to boot. I made these pants right after they came out. YOu'd think that they would have fixed the instructions by now. These are my tnt pant, but I narrowed the knee a bit. I also don't cut the pockets and I added a waistband, so no they don't look like these any more! Yours look great.
Sorry, missed the link to Kay's tutorial. It really is good.
ReplyDeleteTHese look great, but I agree, everything looks way better on an Amazon woman. ;) I am scared of fly zips. Good job!
ReplyDeleteYour zip looks fantastic. Wear those pants and feel proud!
ReplyDeleteOh no! The quest for the perfect fit pant... I've found that unfortunately, even with a pattern that you're sure if your perfect match, a novel fabric can completely change the fit. Maybe the shift from muslin to fashion fabric made things a little strange for your fit?
ReplyDeleteYour fly front zipper looks great --- well worth all the effort!
ReplyDeleteGreat fly front - well done - looking forward to the photo shoot!
ReplyDeleteBeautifully done. Fly front pants are next on my great pants quest.
ReplyDeleteWhat a lovely finish on those trousers. They look great!
ReplyDeleteBeautiful faced fly! HP aren't drafted for my body, so after one disastrous try I'm leaving them alone. I found the instructions were not good, though they were so incomprehensible to me that I wouldn't have been capable of spotting any errors.
ReplyDeleteHow impressive is this!!! Great job! A few years ago I treated my self to a Betzina one day pants fitting class! We fitted and made alterations to the pattern then cut and sewed a muslin then cut and sewed it denim! Sandra even showed us her method of installing the fly zippers! To see a demo go to her website or type in Betzina fly zipper to watch her video!
ReplyDelete