03/2016 - 121 Dress Pattern
I really like the sleeveless version 120 with the ruffle too - another fabric, another day.
The pattern is designed for stretch fabrics only, I used a double knit which is much heavier than their bridal section stretch crepes, but still works. In fact it made it a lot easier because I didn't need to bother with lining or a zip. I also didn't finish the inside edges, they will not fray and serving them just added extra bulk that wasn't needed.
The original dress is fully lined, with an additional layer of interlining on the front. I think if you made this a stretch crepe or something similarly lightweight this would probably be necessary to keep the front pleats in place and stop them drooping. In a double knit, provided the dress is fitted enough, those pleats should (hopefully!) stay where they are meant to.
With my shortcuts this is a pretty straightforward dress to sew. Burda's instructions seem much more detailed than usual and most of them appear to be related to the lining so that you get a clean finish at the edges. I had the dress looking 90% finished within a couple of evenings and then ground to a halt and procrastinated for ages on how to finish my edges and hems because I wanted that same clean look, but successfully sewing double knit by hand so that it is completely invisible and stretchy proved too much for my skills and patience levels!
After a bit of trial and error I used a twin needle on the hem which I mitred at the slit edges, topstitched around the back slit (which is open in my case rather than a vent), simply turned and machined the part of the underarm seam not attached to the sleeve and applied a facing strip to the neckline which I under stitched and topstitched in place. Now I have got over my need for a clean finish I am completely happy with the choices I made, definitely more RTW than couture, but it's very secure and absolutely nobody is going to notice, even me in a short while.
I really like the finished dress, it looks red in these photos, but the fabric is actually a burnt orange / cinnamon colour purchased last year at Pitt St Trading in Sydney. I'm glad I waited to use it.