Wednesday 13 February 2019

Itch to Stitch Plitvice Top

I have a few patterns by Itch to Stitch in my collection that I have been meaning to try for a while.  This is one of the newer releases, the Plitvice cowl knit top.

I like that the pattern is shown made up on a lot of testers and I have to say the instructions for this top at least are excellent and very detailed.

The PDF patterns are layered so you can just print off the size(s) that you want and it is available in a copy shop version if you don't want to do the whole print at home taping thing.  This particular pattern is only 14 pages though and I just read the instructions from my laptop.

I'm not sure the line drawing is accurate to be honest,  in reality the front panel is wider (or the side panels are narrower).  Maybe in the smaller sizes it is more like this?

I really liked that it is a cowl t shirt, but with flat side panels to control the fullness and concentrate it in the front.  The sleeve and hip bands also finish those edges neatly especially if you have quite a thin jersey like I do here.  I made a size 8 with no adjustments although I might try shifting the gathers up a bit higher next time.  These are not great photos, but I did promise myself for 2019 I would not let that get in the way of getting posts up and it is only February so....

Since Hong Kong seems to be skipping right over winter this year I have already worn this top (under a blazer, but still - crazy!  I'm not complaining, but makes it really hard to decide what to sew next.  This little guy also makes it quite difficult to get anything done - just too cute!

Wednesday 23 January 2019

Style Arc Juliet Shirt

Link to Style Arc Juliet shirt pattern here

As a fan of all the drapy, twisty patterns I loved this Style Arc shirt when it was released and ordered it pretty soon afterwards.  However when it arrived (printed copy, not pdf) and I cut it out I noticed a printing error on the cuff piece which was incomplete.  Now it's just a rectangle, but it made me think maybe there were other errors.  I did email Style Arc about it, but never received a reply, got annoyed, put the pattern away and subsequently forgot all about it.

I recently dug it out again and simply corrected the cuff piece to match the width of the sleeve.  You can see in the photo below the amount I needed to extend it by - quite a lot!

I made a test version using some inexpensive self stripe stretch cotton shirting and fortunately the rest of the pattern pieces had no problems.  I made a size 10 with no alterations so can't really complain too much!

Despite my initial disappointment with the pattern there are some good things about it, other than the style;
  • smaller seam allowances on the collar making it much easier to handle
  • whole collar and stand is assembled as one unit before attaching to the shirt body

The back is supposed to be slightly longer than the front, but I didn't have enough fabric to do that.  I also didn't think at all about making the stripe pattern symmetrical on the fronts, but I don't think it's that noticeable in an all white shirt.

I really haven't done a good job tying it here now I see the photos so I will pay attention to that when I wear it in real life.  It would be better to have the tie nearer to the centre as shown in the line drawing.

Now I have confidence in the pattern I do plan to make it again although somewhat ironically I may extend the sleeve to full length which would mean shortening the cuff piece again!

Sunday 20 January 2019

BurdaStyle 11/2018 - 119 Blazer

I loved this blazer from the November 2018 issue and since there is no collar and only fake pockets it is a lot easier to make than you might think.  The buttonhole is in the waist seam so that is easy too.

11/2018 - 119 Blazer

For this version I did things slightly differently and made it from a ponte knit (really only because I have lots and it takes up lots of space in my stash!) and left it unlined.  I also lengthened it as I plan to wear it with jeans or pants and prefer my butt to be covered, with a skirt or dress I think the original pattern length would be better for me.

All the seams were finished together on my serger and then I topstitched to flatten and define the seemliness and edges.

The instructions are to interface the whole front of the jacket, but I decided this was not necessary in my fabric.  I only interfaced the back neck facing, 1 pair of pocket flaps, front peplum facing and the inner front band.  In a lighter suiting material I would use more.

I'm really happy with how this turned out, and dare I say this might be my new TNT blazer pattern.  As I mentioned it is pretty easy to make for a jacket and the clean collarless front mean it can work with lots of different options underneath.

Update since drafting this post.....I've already cut another one in a teal crepe, very similar to the magazine original!

Friday 11 January 2019

BurdaStyle 8/2018 - 111 Wrap Jacket

I AM going to get this blog up to date with my 2018 finished items before moving on to the new year.  I hope that in 2019 I can accept I am neither a model nor a photographer and not let that get in the way of posting regularly.  I need to keep telling myself that this is a sewing blog to share what I am making and to connect with the online sewing community - nothing more - and the photos and writing do not need to be perfect.  So first up is this BurdaStyle jacket from August 2018.

This wrap jacket is a really interesting design, I loved the neckline shape and the sleeve detail is fabulous. but not too crazy.  I made this in some khaki twill cotton which I'm honestly not sure was the best fabric choice, but I'm still working through my pile of super cheap fabric which gives me freedom to experiment a bit.

BurdaStyle 8/2018 - 111

While I like the look of the finished jacket, I wonder if it would be better in a more lightweight fabric than the cotton twill that I used here, although then the sleeve detail - which I love - would be lost I suppose.  

I also made a simple coordinating print skirt.  This is a BurdaStyle pattern I've used before (12/2011 - 108).  It's extremely basic, but sometimes that is all you need especially in a print fabric. 

I've also found that like many wrap garments it is a bit fussy to keep everything in place when you start moving around in real life - as you can see in the photos below.  I need to add a snap or two on the front which will help somewhat.

Tuesday 27 November 2018

BurdaStyle 9/2018 - 121 Knit Wrap Top

It's no secret that I am a big fan of Burda magazine, for me it is by far the cheapest way to get sewing patterns and I love the inspiration it gives me every month.  I don't even mind the tracing and the minimal instructions....

BUT, I have to say the instructions for this very simple top are terrible!!  There are only 3 pattern pieces and I know I have even made a similar top from Burda before.  (Fehr Trade posted the same thing on her instagram so it's not just me having a dumb moment).

BurdaStyle 09/2018 - 121

Despite the awful instructions I do actually love the finished top.

Anyway I would say ignore the nonsense about cutting into one side of the front self facing (the very first step!) as it is not needed.  I guess the idea is that the other front passes through the slit, but it's not clear later on.  Even in my bulkier fabric I don't think it makes any difference.  The instructions also have "(NAHT)" in two places and goodness only knows what that means!!  Neaten allowances together pops up at the end of a few other steps so maybe something like that?!?

Stupid instructions aside this is a really nice pattern.  I made mine in a heavier fabric than recommended - a double knit - so mine is more sweatshirt than blouse.  I like using fabrics like this for wrap tops though as the "stickiness" of the fabric makes it more secure.  I originally planned to make this in more of a t-shirt knit and I might still go back and try it.

I am way behind on blogging my finished items.  It's the taking photos on me that slows it all down, but I think it is really useful to see the clothes being worn and it also helps me to see if something needs fixing or styling differently - sometimes the camera shows you things a mirror does not so I will really try and keep going.