BurdaStyle 12/2015 - 108 Moto Peplum Jacket

Despite whinging about Burda throughout 2015, towards the end of the year things definitely improved and one of my favourite patterns from the whole year was this jacket.

http://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/biker-style-peplum-jacket-122015

There are 2 versions - a cropped collarless version, shown in boucle in the magazine and the peplum version with a mandarin collar, shown in wool and leather.

I made version B, but all in one fabric, a stretch denim.  I left off the armband pieces, sleeve zippers and lining and added topstitching to the section seams.

Tracing this pattern is a bit of a chore, there are lots of small pieces.  However once that work is done it goes together pretty quickly.  In fact I got a bit carried away and sewed up (and serged and topstitched!) the left middle front seam before remembering I needed to put a zip in it!



Ah, the zip.  This is where I ran into problems.  The pattern requires a 12 inch separating zip  I wanted navy with metal teeth and a nice zipper pull and I could only find longer ones.  No problem I thought, I can easily shorten it.  Ha!  I don't know if I bought the strongest zip known to man or I am a complete weakling, but getting those teeth off even with the recommended wire cutting pliers
was an exercise in frustration and really hard to do without damaging the zip tape or my hands.  All the tutorials I found online went into great detail about measuring the zip and then just basically said "now pull off the teeth".   I managed in the end, but I couldn't get the stoppers off at all to move them so I just sewed thread stoppers which will hopefully be OK.   I do really like this jacket so if I ever spot any 12 inch zips while shopping I am buying them!

As usual with shirts and jackets I put in the collar and facings before sewing up the side seams.  I find it much easier to handle the garment when it is still flat and that means I can do final fit adjustments in the side seams.

The collar is assembled like a regular notched collar, which is a bit fiddly - I'm wondering whether it would work to just sandwich the completed collar between the jacket and facing and sew in one pass. Other than that, I think this jacket is easier to sew than it looks (zipper issues aside) and of course the collarless View A would be simpler still.



I think denim is a neutral that works with just about anything - except more denim although that's just my opinion, I know it was a thing recently.  I also think this fitted style will work styled in lots of ways, say as a casual topper thrown over a dress to a smarter look over a pencil skirt.  I think I prefer it slightly unzipped than how the model is wearing it, but it's always good to have options.

Style Arc Georgia Peplum Top

Along with my recent trial of Sewaholic patterns I also decided to give Style Arc a whirl, mostly inspired by Melissa's Marie jacket here (which is coming soon!).  But first I have a wedding coming up in the UK, some leftover mint lace and lots of optimism that it will be sunny on the day!

Peplum tops have been around for ages and since they don't seem to be going anywhere yet I decided it was high time I make one.  The thing with indie patterns is that I think you need to make them a few times to justify the cost so hopefully I still have time to make a few before looking ridiculous.  I guess you could always extend the peplum and make a dress.

This pattern has some interesting darts in the front, which also make it a tricky choice working with a geometric patterned lace and short yardage, but I gave it my best go to match up the pattern where possible.  I had to swap the cap sleeves for some smaller ones (I used BurdaStyle 07/2011-131 which seemed to have the smallest sleeves in my recent issues).  I also lowered the front neckline a bit.

The most unnerving thing about ordering Style Arc patterns is that you choose your size and that is what you get, but I was really impressed and pretty surprised that the fit on this top was excellent, I took in the waist a bit but that's it.  (For the record I usually make a 38 Burda, 12 Vogue and went with a 10 here).

 

Like my lace skirt, I underlined the top in black silk.  The finishing on the inside looks like something out of a sample from a class on seam finishes, a bit of everything here - facings, ribbon, serging, handstitching down seam allowances.  

So, overall I'd say I am really impressed with Style Arc patterns and will definitely make more - however.....  

I wrote all this and then went to take photos of me wearing the top.  This is the part that always slows my blogging down, I have a bunch of things waiting to get posted here just waiting for photos, but I think it is important to show the clothes on a person.  I also discovered that it really helps you be more objective about an outfit - either in a good way or a bad way.  

Looking in the mirror I thought this was a great outfit for an English summer wedding, but looking at the photos I don't like it at all!  Admittedly I have made zero effort with my hair and make up, but still.  If I hadn't seen these photos I would have just put the outfit in my suitcase and then been disappointed when I saw the photos later, at least now I have the chance to do something about it.

I know it is a lot of lace, but people wear lace dresses successfully so I think it is a more a matter of proportion, maybe the peplum is too long for me, the colour too pale all over or I need a v neck, wider shoulder line?  Some more imaginative styling?  Or is it destined for the charity shop?  Maybe I have avoided peplums all this time because I knew deep down they weren't for me?  All your smart feedback welcome although I have no more of this fabric left so my options are limited.  If I don't have time to fix it before leaving for the UK I think I will revert to the way I wore the skirt to the Chinese wedding reception recently, hopefully a black silk jacket is not a big no-no!

This is turning into a long post, but I've learnt a valuable lesson - taking photos of yourself wearing outfits is a good thing even if it is a pain to do!