Burda Style 10/2012 - 119 Knit top

Oh my I didn't mean to go awol for quite such a long time, after my UK trip I got my usual season changeover loss of mojo plus we decided to move apartments and it is only when you have estate agents and clients trooping through all the time that you realise what a messy business sewing can be.

In addition my old camera died and while the new one is undoubtedly superior I am still learning how to get it to focus less on my face and more on my clothes.  Also the self timer function is annoying - my old camera would do 3 shots at 10 second intervals, this camera either does one at a time or 10 within about a second which I am sure is great for photos of hummingbirds etc, but I just get 10 lousy shots of me instead of 1!

Anyway excuses excuses blah blah blah, let's just get on with it shall we and see if the photos improve over time, bear with me....

First up Burda 10/2012 - 119 jersey crossover top.  I probably already have at least 1 pattern like this somewhere but it seems I like to torture myself tracing new ones.

I made this with an odd shaped offcut of brown zig zap printed jersey.  It's a little loud and, well, zig-zaggy, but I think with a brown jacket on the top this will make a great fall outfit.

There really is nothing to say about the construction other than I raised the neckline about 1 inch and made the sleeve hem smaller due to fabric shortage, it's very straightforward to put together and dare I say that the instructions are even quite good!

 Ah it feels good to be blogging again, I feel more inspired to sew already!

Cowl top duo

Thanks for all the encouraging comments on my last post, I think you are right that I just need a bit of time away from it and to pep it up with some interesting accessories.  I tend to prefer wearing dresses because I recognise that I really am no good at putting separates together and I don't have a lot of skill with accessories either.

I also came to my senses and decided that rushing to make something new for the wedding I am attending would probably end in disaster.  In July, Erica B came to a similar conclusion for an upcoming event and grabbed a DKNY dress from her closet.  I have decided to do the same and hope some of her fabulousness wears off on me!  I even commented at the time which is why I can remember it.........

"AllisonC said...

You know whenever I have made something last minute I have not been truly happy with it. I generally adore DK patterns and this one looks fantastic on you."

I'm going to wear Donna Karan, Vogue 1159 a very similar dress to Erica's.  I'll try and get some decent photos at the wedding.

But, I still had to make something new to take so I have made two simple knit cowl tops using up some remnants in my stash.  I'm sure I could keep my stash much tidier without all these small half cut raggedy pieces.  Both needed a bit of creative piecing of the fabric scraps, but I managed it.

This one is a silk jersey, made using the famous Vogue 1250 Donna Karan (again!) dress, shortened to a top.  The jersey, which feels divine to wear is very drapy so I found I needed to stitch the neckline together a bit to control it.  To get it out of my small piece of fabric I added a centre back seam and a band at the hem, the busy print means you can hardly see these extra seams.

This grey top with metallic silver stripes was made using Burdastyle magazine 05/2012 - 110.  I started out with my usual size 38 and found it to be huge, I had to take it in at the side seams by a good 2 sizes to get the fit I wanted.  The short on fabric solution for this one is a back hem panel with the stripes going in the opposite direction.  Excuse the wrinkles!

Vogue 1303 Kay Unger dress

I made this simple Kay Unger dress recently and I have to say I am totally uninspired by it and I'm not sure why.  I like the fabric and I like the pattern, but the combination together is just very...blah.  If it wasn't for the hot pink lining I might even have dozed off while making it.  I'm thinking (hoping) it's just wrong for the summer and I'll like it better in the cooler weather with boots and a jacket.  Anyway a reminder of the pattern.....

I used a grey jacquard rose printed fabric and as I started working with it I knew I had to make a few changes as it became very soft and stretched like mad on the bias.  That middle pleated section is cut on the bias with a straight of grain stay underneath it - I had to cut off a lot of excess to get the bias piece to fit the stay.  At this point I hurriedly added fusible stay tape to the neckline and armscyes and decided not to make the little v in the front neckline.  I also had to take it in quite a bit at the side seams, but that may have been due to my growing fabric rather than an inconsistency with usual Vogue sizing.

This is the inside front on it's side, you can see the darker printed fabric at the bottom of the photo that I had to trim off the bias pleated front part - a good 3 inches!

I did like that this pattern has no facings, it's just lined to the edges.  I decided to add little cap sleeves, but if you make it sleeveless do make sure you ignore the instructions and instead keep the side and back seam open until after the lining is attached at the neck and armholes.  It's a much cleaner and easier finish, if you're not familiar with this method (like the Big 4 instruction writers apparently!) see Slapdash Sewist's excellent tutorial here.

Hot pink silk lining - aka dressmaking caffeine in this case

Here is the finished dress, it really doesn't help the boring-ness factor that you can hardly even see the only detail on the dress!

OK the post is over, you can wake up now!  Much more exciting is that I am due to go to a wedding in the UK in less than 2 weeks and I decided today that I did want to make a new dress for it after all, lets see how that crazy idea pans out.

New Vogues!

I enjoy seeing what people are picking from the just released Fall Vogue patterns so here is what I plan to order in the next sale.  (I just missed the latest deadline by a couple of hours - never mind there will be another soon and it's not like I have no other patterns to sew).  I also picked up my August Burda and apart from the pyjama-y section I think it's a great issue.

I have been sewing and have a top and 2 dresses to blog, just waiting for the weather to brighten up a bit so I can get some half decent photos.  Hong Kong got hit by a big typhoon this week and it hasn't stopped raining since.

Anyway....

1316 Rebecca Taylor colourblock dress
I know making this will drive me nuts!


1321 Donna Karan coat.  
I really don't need another coat, but then I probably don't need any more dresses either and it doesn't stop me making them.



1324 Donna Karan blouse & skirt
This is my favourite.



8825 Knit dress





8827 Wrap dress, for wovens & with a draped neckline (also options for pleat neckline or half & half)

8831 Cowl neck raglan sleeve knit tops (also option for long sleeves and hi-lo hem)

DKNY wearability report & BurdaStyle 08/2011 116 Dress

Ok first a wearability report on DKNY Vogue 1221.  I was most worried that the pleats and front wrap would move out of place, but actually they were fine.  However I was very conscious that unless I kept amazing posture all night then anyone taller than me (which is frankly most people if I'm not wearing skyscraper heels) could see straight down the front as it gapes a bit there in my relatively stiff stretch cotton.

The fix for this - now that it is completed and I am not unpicking anything - is to add in a strip that attaches to the top inside neckline and the other end tucks under your bra band.  I've seen these in some evening wear, I have no idea what it's called and haven't done it yet so I can't show you.  Does anyone know what I am talking about?  (I've occasionally done the same thing in emergencies with a strip of twill tape and a safety pin.)

[Edited to add - Thank you to Katherine who calls it a decolette stay and has instructions here!  http://sewblooms.blogspot.com.au/2008/03/sewing-for-st-patrick.html]

I seem to live in dresses in the summer so it's no surprise that I have made another one - the cowl neck dress #116 from 08/2011 Burda magazine.

There is no way I would dream of wearing this without a belt as it is too shapeless, but with a belt it is ideal casual wear.  I've made this from - slightly controversially - something very synthetic.  I have no idea what it is, a lightweight stretch woven that reminds me of sports fabric that you might make shorts or hiking pants out of.  I have to say it was a dream to work with and is surprisingly really cool to wear.  It was slightly narrow so I had to add a centre back seam to fit the pattern pieces onto the fabric.  Super quick to make and easy to wear.

Everyone seems to be tying their belts like this now which is great for ones which don't have extra belt loops

Closer look at the cowl neckline and cut on sleeves

It always amuses me how many bloggers have shots like this with bits of nosy pets in them!